When you meet a stranger, look at his shoes.
October 20, 2014 5:15 PM   Subscribe

The Rise Of Men’s British-Made Shoes
The most famous Northampton technique is the 'Goodyear welted' shoe. Invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear, Jr., the Goodyear welted process is the footwear equivalent of the off-side rule: until somebody sits you down and talks you through it, it’s quite hard to understand.

The process involves approximately 75 components and 200 separate operations. On average, the whole process, from start to finish, takes eight weeks to complete. The main benefit of footwear that is made using Goodyear welted construction is that it can be resoled repeatedly, giving the shoe a longer lifespan.
posted by joseph conrad is fully awesome (78 comments total) 71 users marked this as a favorite
 


I'm sure The Whelk has thoughts on this.
posted by orrnyereg at 5:24 PM on October 20, 2014 [1 favorite]


What sort of list includes the mediocre-at-best Grenson and Barker but not Alfred Sargent, Trickers or Crockett & Jones? Honestly!
posted by sobarel at 5:26 PM on October 20, 2014 [2 favorites]


I was literally about to say I spent yesterday looking at British made show kick starters.
posted by The Whelk at 5:26 PM on October 20, 2014


Of course, the underlying structure of everything in England is posh. There is no in-between with these people. You have to walk a mile to find a telephone booth, but when you find it, it is built as if the senseless dynamiting of pay phones had been a serious problem at some time in the past. And a British mailbox can presumably stop a German tank. None of them have cars, but when they do, they are three-ton hand-built beasts. The concept of stamping out a whole lot of cars is unthinkable.

Neal Stephenson "Cryptonomicon"
posted by sourwookie at 5:29 PM on October 20, 2014 [14 favorites]


And a British mailbox can presumably stop a German tank.

When the IRA bombed Manchester in 1996 a large part of the city centre was destroyed, but the postbox the truck bomb was parked next to was totally unscathed.
posted by sobarel at 5:35 PM on October 20, 2014 [18 favorites]


does anyone know any less-formal slip on shoes made with this technique (not talking about doc martens fyi). in a perfect world you could by well made versions of mocs like these that could be resoled for ever
posted by lalochezia at 5:46 PM on October 20, 2014


There's always something a bit disconcerting when you see inside the fabric of the shoe like this and see that the soles are basically just a few wafers of cardboard and sawdust crammed together rather than some magical immortal substance protecting your feet from the filthy horrors of the ground on which you walk.
posted by dng at 5:51 PM on October 20, 2014 [5 favorites]


That's not the sole - it's a cork filling between the insole and outsole. Cheap shoes often have cardboard insoles though.
posted by sobarel at 5:57 PM on October 20, 2014 [1 favorite]


What sort of list includes the mediocre-at-best Grenson and Barker but not Alfred Sargent, Trickers or Crockett & Jones? Honestly!

Indeed! When I read that, my monocle nearly popped out. I shall have my secretary send these bourgeois cads a strongly-worded admonishment for their oversight.
posted by Mayor Curley at 6:09 PM on October 20, 2014 [10 favorites]


Of course, the underlying structure of everything in England is posh.

...and sometimes perhaps unusually named. A tight corridor I entered, with little room to squeeze past things coming the other way [ENOUGH! - mods] to get to a posh east Midlands village when perambulating over the weekend.
posted by Wordshore at 6:10 PM on October 20, 2014 [3 favorites]


I had some shoes resoled this year, three year old Allen Edmonds (an American brand). For about $100 they're like new, actually better than new because I didn't have to break them in again. I expect to get another 2-3 years out of these soles (blame city living), so overall pretty neat.
posted by 2bucksplus at 6:10 PM on October 20, 2014 [1 favorite]


Pepsi Shue
posted by Rumple at 6:14 PM on October 20, 2014 [4 favorites]


What sort of list includes the mediocre-at-best Grenson and Barker but not Alfred Sargent, Trickers or Crockett & Jones?

Loake also. I mean, they're great value and I wear them myself, but they cost about a quarter of what my Church's cost.

They sell Loake in Costco, fer Christ's sake.
posted by PeterMcDermott at 6:29 PM on October 20, 2014 [2 favorites]


Does anyone know any less-formal slip on shoes made with this technique

Whenever I travelled to the USA, I'd always pick up a couple of pairs of Bass Weejuns.
posted by PeterMcDermott at 6:32 PM on October 20, 2014


I haven't dared look at the prices, but one employee spending 200 hours to build one pair of shoes. Hm. You'd like to think a talent like that is worth at least $25 an hour, preferably more. Double that to account for overhead, and we're at $50 x 200.

Um. Are these shoes really $10,000 a pair? Or is the employee underpaid?
posted by maxwelton at 6:40 PM on October 20, 2014 [3 favorites]


Loake also. I mean, they're great value and I wear them myself, but they cost about a quarter of what my Church's cost.

They sell Loake in Costco, fer Christ's sake.


The Loake 1880 range is pretty good, but they make some right old tat as well. Or rather someone in India makes it, and Loake "finish" it in Northampton...
posted by sobarel at 6:42 PM on October 20, 2014


..and sometimes perhaps unusually named. A tight corridor I entered, with little room to squeeze past things coming the other way [ENOUGH! - mods] to get to a posh east Midlands village when perambulating over the weekend.

I like the added indignity of removing the "l" in "Public Byway"
posted by dhens at 6:45 PM on October 20, 2014 [2 favorites]


How do American-made Alden shoes compare to these? I've been coveting Alden's Indy boots for years.
posted by jessssse at 6:48 PM on October 20, 2014


Alden have a lot of consistency issues, so it's worth checking out a pair very carefully before buying. But other than that they're very good - different styling sensibility to English shoes, but made in the same way. I like the Indy boots too.
posted by sobarel at 6:52 PM on October 20, 2014 [1 favorite]


Aldens are absolutely comparable to the upper-tier of English made-to-wear.
posted by Oxydude at 6:52 PM on October 20, 2014




IMO, it's difficult to compare US-made shoes like Aldens and AE and Walkover and Rancourt to English-made shoes. English lasts and sizing are different, for one thing - you can take a brogue boot from Alden and it will be...um...blobbier and more loosely constructed than an English brogue boot, and no matter what they tell you, an English shoe is not exactly 1/2 a size smaller than its US size equivalent. I prefer English shoes because I wear a UK 7.5, but a US 8 is fractionally too small for me.

US-made shoes are more rustic, even the ones that purport to be more refined - just compare an Alden monk-strap with...oh...let's say a Crockett Jones monkstrap. Partly because there's less choice for US-made shoes, there just isn't the range - you aren't going to get the simply gorgeous slightly chisel-toed kind of shoe, or anything really gorgeously refined like an Edward Green Galway (the single best boot in the world...after years of longing, I purchased a very, very run-down pebble grain leather pair second hand and they are just so wonderful - and they're not even the really deluxe kind of Galway).

I don't know - US shoemaking is rarely witty, but Trickers are funny, like these. Grenson is often funny as well, although a lot of their shoes are made in..India, is it...now.

The thing is, each has its purpose - Alden uses fantastically soft and malleable leathers with a depth of color that I just don't notice in UK shoes as much and their shoes mold to the foot really well (whereas when you have Trickers, you had better be prepared to mold to the shoe). Aldens are gorgeous shoes but in a completely different way than anything you get in the UK, IMO. Rancourt - their lasts don't really fit me, but again, the depth of color and the softness of the last is terrific.

I like UK-made shoes best of all the shoes I've ever tried, and I've tried a bunch, partly because I have too many shoes and partly because my feet are really, really difficult to fit (which is what led, initially, to the multiplicity of shoes). It seems like all over the price scale, something made in the UK is more likely to fit my particular feet and be comfortable...neither Alden nor AE nor Rancourt really does it for me, but everything from some vintage cheapies from Loake through my Edward Greens fits well and is comfortable.
posted by Frowner at 7:31 PM on October 20, 2014 [13 favorites]


My favorite shoes are my Aldens. I have a pair of Indys and they are just insanely comfortable. And between my black cap-toe oxfords and my Allen Edmonds there really isn't any contest, the Aldens are just so much more supple and forgiving.

It is possible that I have spent too much money on shoes.
posted by backseatpilot at 7:44 PM on October 20, 2014 [1 favorite]


(For the sake of clarification - all my fancy shoes are second (if not third) hand. I still spend too much on shoes, yes, but not that much too much.)
posted by Frowner at 7:46 PM on October 20, 2014


Well, my first foray into expensive shoes came about due to a very coincidental announcement of Epaulet's cordovan trainers. I'd just been reading about the benefits of cordovan when I got the email announcing the limited run, and I couldn't help but pull the trigger. I can't wait until January or February.
posted by jessssse at 7:53 PM on October 20, 2014


In the US, you can also check out NYC's Vogel Boots (they also make riding boots). Bespoke only, recently went through some kind of management change. Still have my old lasts, tho.
posted by Dreidl at 8:08 PM on October 20, 2014


Vogel's makes slip-ons, BTW.
posted by Dreidl at 8:12 PM on October 20, 2014


I have recently gotten into higher end shoes via two pair of used Aldens, one of which was a worn only once pair of black slip on loafers that I got for an outrageously good price. The other is a pair of brown tassel loafers, which were worn in like the most perfect pair of shoes ever, but they're not far from needing a resole. Still got a unbelievable deal, and probably will get at least a year before the resole as I don't wear them often.

I'm now working with a serious case of coveting a pair of indys, because I do really need a pair of boots...
posted by ndfine at 8:18 PM on October 20, 2014


I don't know - US shoemaking is rarely witty, but Trickers are funny, like these.

Jeeves would never let Bertie out wearing something like that. It would be the purple socks all over again.
posted by betweenthebars at 8:37 PM on October 20, 2014 [3 favorites]


I stumbled into this when I got irritated with cruddy shoes which fall apart after a year. Why? Why are the shoes I can walk into an average store and buy so uniformly terrible? So I did research and looked at the patents and talked to five cobblers to see if they had some kind of consensus on a brand with some reputation.

As it turns out, a lot of brands which used to do Goodyear welting managed to monetize their reputation by now having their new, substandard lines arrive in giant shipping containers from who knows where, still damp with the sweat of malnourished children. You have to look for a company's "heritage" or "vintage" line to make sure you're getting a Goodyear welt.

Then my own pickiness came into play: I need an actual boot of a certain height, as my ankles are crap, plus I want something black and office-friendly. It really narrows the playing field.

I still have not managed to buy the shoes yet, but I at least have candidates. Eventually, I will find the perfect shoe and then a dozen pairs will be purchased, rotating through three at a time, and that will be it for the goddamned shoe situation for life.
posted by adipocere at 8:38 PM on October 20, 2014 [7 favorites]


The links here are helpful because I will need a new pair of work boots soon, and while the specific shoes/boots being discussed are wildly inappropriate (if they were cheaper I'd buy a pair for the comedic value, just to crack up the guys) the details about construction are really interesting.
posted by Dip Flash at 8:40 PM on October 20, 2014


Yeah I don't understand the 200 hour thing. From what I can see online those shoes are selling for around 200 to 300 pounds. I don't think they are paying their employees one pound an hour, and that's not counting overhead or profit, so what gives?

Similarly all the other brands that say a pair of shoes takes 3 weeks or even eight weeks to make. That just doesn't make sense.
posted by lollusc at 8:44 PM on October 20, 2014


I've been coveting Alden's Indy boots for years.

I'm wearing my Indy boots now and they're still the most comfortable boots I've ever worn. If at all possible, I'd suggest trying them on in person to get the sizing nailed down pat. I was surprised to learn that the size that fit me best was 7.5EEE - regardless, they're worth every penny.
posted by dhammond at 9:09 PM on October 20, 2014


The shoes are likely made in batches, so 200 hours will be for a batch of N pairs, of which yours will be one. The overall time taken will also include curing time for the glue.
posted by Thing at 9:10 PM on October 20, 2014 [2 favorites]


I defy any of these British brands to prove better value than Ecco or Mephisto. You can buy a pair of Mephisto shoes for $350.00 and wear them for decades (with resoling, which doesn't cost a fortune). Ecco's are comfortable within 15 minutes, right out of the box. My favorite shoe is Ecco's TrackII (low ankle) - absolutely the best all around casual shoe I've ever worn. They look good, are fully worn in to your foot within a day, and wear like iron.
posted by Vibrissae at 9:16 PM on October 20, 2014


My favorite shoe is Ecco's TrackII (low ankle) - absolutely the best all around casual shoe I've ever worn. They look good

Boy do we have different tastes.

(I also apparently have different tastes from everyone who buys English-made shoes. I think most of the shoes in the OP are fugly, pretty much all in the same way: I cannot stand the exaggerated curl of the toe box/forefoot. Tant pis pour moi.)
posted by asterix at 9:50 PM on October 20, 2014 [1 favorite]


Have you heard the news?
Can't afford no shoes.
posted by charlie don't surf at 10:19 PM on October 20, 2014


The good thing about the very long life of this kind of shoe is that you can get them second hand, much cheaper than new, and still expect to be buried in them if you look after them right.
posted by i_am_joe's_spleen at 10:55 PM on October 20, 2014


From rebent's /r/goodyearwelt Reddit link, there is this image at the top.

Can anyone identify the shoes at the far left?
posted by Auden at 11:05 PM on October 20, 2014


Those are Alden wing tip boots in cordovan.
posted by cazoo at 11:17 PM on October 20, 2014 [2 favorites]


Thanks, cazoo.
posted by Auden at 11:25 PM on October 20, 2014


Goodyear welt fans: if you need something a bit sturdier, the Pacific Northwest features the finest custom workboot makers in the world. Portland (well, Scappoose) has Wesco (who also make women's boots and even women's dress heels!). Spokane has White's and Nick's (founded by a White's bootmaker). Victoria features Viberg and Vancouver the famous Daytons.

Wesco, Daytons and Viberg make collections for Japan and Europe as well as other shoe designers. Buy local - these boots are designed for rain and mud. My Wesco Motorcycle Patrol boots, the first pair made for a civilian, have over 150,000 biking miles on them - and have only needed heels so far!
posted by Dreidl at 12:23 AM on October 21, 2014 [6 favorites]


I have two pairs of very nice Church shoes in great condition, that I never wear because they're so uncomfortable. I ought to sell them, but they are very nice to look at in the closet.

How did I end up with two badly-fitting pairs? Well, the first ones are too wide and cut into me in the wrong places, so I spent over an hour with the Church man trying loads of styles, lengths and widths to find a narrower pair. That I succeeded in - and now they don't fit me in a different way.

I ought to sell both pairs and accept that Church lasts probably don't work on my feet. But that means spending an hour in Loake, an hour with Cheaney... which I don't have the willpower for.

My main problem seems to be that the wearing in process brings out the flaws in the shoe fit, rather than what it should do and mould to my feet.
posted by milkb0at at 1:35 AM on October 21, 2014


If I am spending £200-300 on a pair of shoes I expect them to be made to measure. Is that a reasonable expectation, or would I have to pay more for that?
posted by asok at 3:03 AM on October 21, 2014


asok :
If I am spending £200-300 on a pair of shoes I expect them to be made to measure. Is that a reasonable expectation, or would I have to pay more for that?
Unfortunately that's not really realistic. It's possible that you'd get some customised options on an Indonesian or Indian-made shoe.

Many of these shoemakers will do custom orders. Here's a list of previously made Tricker's - some are very idiosyncratic. They will typically run you about £50-100 more than their off-the-shelf models.

Fully bespoke shoes on a custom last will start about £1000. It's actually a heck of a lot of work. Look into videos of what John Lobb London does - really amazing stuff but with a very, very rarified air.
posted by Magnakai at 3:25 AM on October 21, 2014


Metafilter: really amazing stuff but with a very, very rarefied air.
posted by etherist at 3:29 AM on October 21, 2014 [2 favorites]


So... say I'm in London for another week and I wear a US women's size 7.5 and love queer/gentlemanly shoes in my size that hold up forever. Do these brands make stuff that small? The folks selling Aldens laughed at me when I asked in Michigan, sigh.
posted by deludingmyself at 3:48 AM on October 21, 2014


Dip Flash: if it's work boots you need, and want good construction and value, I'd suggest Thorogood. They're GW welted, vibram sole, and made in the US. They also offer discounts for union members, if that helps, and they can usually be had for under $150. I also have found that they far outlast any of the boots Red Wing has been making for the last 5 or so years, and look better to boot!
posted by still bill at 4:02 AM on October 21, 2014 [2 favorites]


I'll take my leather-soled Tony Lamas over any of these feet-killing banker-looking monstrosities. If I had a job where I had to wear men's dress shoes I would quit by 3 weeks in!
posted by spitbull at 4:07 AM on October 21, 2014


In other words I don't see the virtue of durability without comfort or style. But that's like everything else British.
posted by spitbull at 4:10 AM on October 21, 2014 [1 favorite]


I am obsessive about long-lasting shoes. For dress shoes, I love Allen Edmonds, but have also had great pairs of Church's and Alfred Sargent. AE tends to make a slightly flatter and wider toebox, it seems to me, and that fits me quite nicely.

I love carefully made shoes, and have gone through dozens of pairs. The only thing I buy new are work boots, usually Thorogoods, and I did recently ask for a pair of Bean Boots (waxed canvas heritage line, because the leather ones are uncomfortably stiff to me) for a birthday. Everything else can be had second hand, and that not only means saving around 75% on retail, but also having them already softened and carrying some patina.

I don't really wear casual shoes other than my beloved Wallabees (and my one pair of Visvim Folks, which are in another league from all other casual shoes, in price, style and construction), but I have been coveting Quoddy mocs for a long long time, even though I don't like casual/boat shoe type mocs much at all. I'm just awed by that production process. Same with John Lobb: not much my style, but the way they're constructed is amazing.

Vibrassae: most of the shoes discussed in this thread will outlast Ecco or Mephisto by a factor of years, and will (almost without exception) look better, also.
posted by still bill at 4:18 AM on October 21, 2014


but I have been coveting Quoddy mocs for a long long time, even though I don't like casual/boat shoe type mocs much at all. I'm just awed by that production process.

If you can get your size down, there's a guy on ebay who sells new quoddys all the time for about 170 bucks.
posted by MisantropicPainforest at 4:33 AM on October 21, 2014 [1 favorite]


So... say I'm in London for another week and I wear a US women's size 7.5 and love queer/gentlemanly shoes in my size that hold up forever. Do these brands make stuff that small? The folks selling Aldens laughed at me when I asked in Michigan, sigh.

Crockett Jones and Trickers have women's lines - call the shops, I mean the Jermyn street shops.
posted by Frowner at 5:17 AM on October 21, 2014 [1 favorite]


In other words I don't see the virtue of durability without comfort or style.

Style is certainly debatable (I think they look fantastic, but I understand why people think they look stodgy), but if shoes like these aren't comfortable I think it's because you didn't get the right size. I wear my shoes hard - if I'm not out mucking through the mud, I'm usually wearing a pair of Aldens or Allen Edmonds. I bring them on vacation, and I'll walk 5+ miles a day in them. I honestly find them more comfortable for long-term wear than the sneakers I have.

More than the shoes, the one problem I have consistently had is with cheap socks. My socks from Target are sewn shut at the toe, and a large seam runs across the tops of my toes and rubs badly. I bought a few pairs of Pantherella socks on Sierra Trading Post and that problem went away.
posted by backseatpilot at 5:27 AM on October 21, 2014 [1 favorite]


t if shoes like these aren't comfortable I think it's because you didn't get the right size.


exactly. The problem many have is getting the right size. lined calfskin is not that comfortable if it doesn't fit your foot already. Handsewn's like quoddy are very forgiving, but my Allen Edmonds do not fit me great. They're comfortable, but just the slightiest bit of rubbing in my heel gets magnified since the calf is stiffer than say, unlined suede or cxl. When you consider that many shoes are on different lasts by the same maker, and that shoes on the same last may fit you differently, getting the right size is trick. but worth it.
posted by MisantropicPainforest at 5:54 AM on October 21, 2014 [1 favorite]


None of them have cars, but when they do, they are three-ton hand-built beasts. The concept of stamping out a whole lot of cars is unthinkable.


Someone writing about British cars who clearly never came across anything built at Longbridge. You wouldn't need to stamp out a Rover, just park it on the street and watch it disassemble itself over time.
posted by C.A.S. at 6:31 AM on October 21, 2014 [1 favorite]


Well, there is comfort and there is appearance. Sometimes they meet. Sometimes they diverge.

Worst shoes I've ever owned were Doc Martens [or Dr. Martens it seems now], it was like nailing your foot to a very attractive small coffee table and pretending it didn't hurt. Even with bumpy insoles they were painful. Best shoes I've ever owned were Bass. Each pair cost the same. One I wore to special occasions, the other I wore to work for six years.
posted by vapidave at 6:38 AM on October 21, 2014


I think this was the Bass shoe [style] that I wore. I like my shoes simple.
posted by vapidave at 6:42 AM on October 21, 2014


ok so here's the question I'm hoping to get answered:

What business casual shoe/boot has a toebox that does not pinch your toes together? Illustration of what I'm talking about. I'd love to find some boots I can wear to work, that don't look like clown shoes - or at the very least, that are made with a nice brogued cap or wing.
posted by rebent at 6:52 AM on October 21, 2014


If I am spending £200-300 on a pair of shoes I expect them to be made to measure. Is that a reasonable expectation, or would I have to pay more for that?

That's not quite possible how you mean it. Truly made-to-measure shoes require the creation of a last that mimics the actual shape of your individual foot, and then the shoe is sewn to fit. Think of all the work, even if you could use some kind of scanning process to create the last! In general, you get a fitting in the middle as well. (And IMO, given that foot shape/size shifts slightly over time, it's not really worth it unless you have either a very tricky fit or so much money that it truly Does Not Matter.)

For somewhere north of $300, Rancourt or Wesco or White's will make a "to measure" shoe based on a tracing that you take of your foot. This is extremely useful if you have a weird width-to-length situation.

The thing is, $300 buys you a well-made shoe produced by a craftsperson working in adequate conditions for an adequate wage. The higher you go, the better the materials and the more artisan-status the shoemaker - with a certain amount of woo built in to some brands, such that a $1200 pair of Edward Greens is better than a $1200 "designer" pair made by a lesser maker.

We are so used to fast fashion that $300 seems insane for shoes, and we associate it mostly with designer mark-up - spindly women's shoes that cost a lot and wear out or go out of style instantly. We forget that before fast fashion and overseas sweatshops, clothes and shoes cost a lot more and people had a lot less of them. Obviously - obviously! - we don't live in a society where $300 and up is a realistic amount for most people to spend on shoes. But that's a function of increasing inequality masked by fast fashion - people who would have had a union gig in the past and had a couple of pairs of union made shoes* now have some lousy precarious job and burn through a couple of pairs of $24.99 Target shoes every year.

There are two separate premises: we should live in a society where everyone can get well-made and comfortable shoes, whatever social mechanism is needed to make this happen; and if you can get better shoes right now, that has its benefits, and there are some ways to make it more affordable if it's on the edge of affordability for you. This does not mean that if you don't/can't spend that kind of money on shoes, you are Doing It Wrong.

(On Allen Edmonds: only some of their shoes are made in the US, and of those, some are just finished in the US. They were bought by some kind of holding group a few years ago and quality has just dropped off in many models. (Not all.) I have some AEs from the eighties and nineties that are just lovely - really lovely leather, nicely finished, everything a US-made shoe should be. And what you see from AE now is....well, it's still nice, and AEs are pretty accessible via sales, Nordstrom Rack, etc, and they do pay decent wages. But the leather quality has gone down and the niceness of the finishing has gone down, and I think the designs have deteriorated too - they're chasing after some kind of more fashionable market but they don't seem to have the right designers to do that successfully.)

(On Mephisto: Mephisto makes some welted shoes in Germany. There are a few other pairs than those shown here, and Pediwear's photos don't really do them justice. They are kind of cute and stubby-looking and very nicely made. They are not sleek or super-dressy, but if you need a durable comfort office shoe (or a comfort chelsea boot) they're pretty good.)

(I also apparently have different tastes from everyone who buys English-made shoes. I think most of the shoes in the OP are fugly, pretty much all in the same way: I cannot stand the exaggerated curl of the toe box/forefoot. Tant pis pour moi.)

The thing is, I hate those extended toe boxes too - and they really should not curl up. But that's not IME characteristic of English shoes. That's this weird contemporary-Italian bandwagon thing that some of the brands are doing, and what you get from Barker Black. I think they chose those shoes because it's meant to appeal to a market that does not usually buy UK-made shoes. I have never purchased or even seen a UK-made pair that really looks like that in the flesh, although I'm sure they (eeesh) exist.


*This is all a slightly more complicated question, because if you look at vintage US-made shoes, they are uniformly higher quality than almost all RTW shoes today, but within that set the quality varies - so Allen Edmonds from 1960 is amazing, like Crockett & Jones is today, but [random brand] is a lot more like Loakes.
posted by Frowner at 6:52 AM on October 21, 2014 [8 favorites]


What business casual shoe/boot has a toebox that does not pinch your toes together? Illustration of what I'm talking about. I'd love to find some boots I can wear to work, that don't look like clown shoes - or at the very least, that are made with a nice brogued cap or wing.

This is all down to finding a last that suits your foot. If you've got a wide foot then a narrow last will never work out, regardless of which size you try.

The good news with English boots is that they tend towards the generously wide, so you may want to look into Trickers on the 4497 last or Alfred Sargent on the 7WK or 87F lasts. Loake make some nice brogued boots on the 024 last too which are a bit cheaper.
posted by sobarel at 7:13 AM on October 21, 2014


Hey, I got my new shoes on, and suddenly everything's right.
posted by hearthpig at 7:31 AM on October 21, 2014


AE dalton s in the right size should do the trick
posted by MisantropicPainforest at 7:32 AM on October 21, 2014


For somewhere north of $300, Rancourt or Wesco or White's will make a "to measure" shoe based on a tracing that you take of your foot.

That sounds like a reasonable compromise.

I know a guy who took to making his own shoes due to his wedge shaped feet, not sure if he is still at it. His other preferred option was going shoeless.

Personally I think I'll be sticking to plan A - look for shoes in the sales that fit as well as possible!
posted by asok at 7:33 AM on October 21, 2014


My favorite shoe is Ecco's TrackII (low ankle) - absolutely the best all around casual shoe I've ever worn. They look good, are fully worn in to your foot within a day, and wear like iron.

MY EYES! ZEE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!
posted by entropicamericana at 7:46 AM on October 21, 2014


Do any British makers go above size 12? I wear 13.5 in UK size, and I didn't see any. I like my Redwings, anyway, so no big deal. They're Goodyear welted, too.
posted by Huck500 at 7:50 AM on October 21, 2014 [1 favorite]


I found a pair of Allen Edmonds brogues in a vintage store in London about six years ago, cost me twenty quid. I've had them resoled once, and the cobbler tells that there's no reason they don't last me till I die. Wonderfully comfortable, and the best bargain I've ever found.

Middle son, who is amazingly hard on shoes, got himself a pair of R M Williams boots, and they are *fantastic*, although admittedly rather expensive. One of them started to wear inside, and the shop in London sent them, along with careful measurements of his feet, back to Australia. A few weeks later he had them back, one now about 1/4 size smaller than the other. Perfect fit. Now that is some service!
posted by 43rdAnd9th at 8:27 AM on October 21, 2014


Do any British makers go above size 12?

Trickers, Loake and Crockett & Jones go up to 13, and they run a bit large (a 1/2 to 1 full size in Trickers case) so you should be ok. They're all very helpful via email.
posted by sobarel at 9:12 AM on October 21, 2014


I resoled a pair of AEs four times before the uppers gave out due to cracking. The results were great, but I think they got a good laugh at them the last time.
posted by achrise at 9:35 AM on October 21, 2014


Those asking about Alden's, please see this recent thread. TL;DR they're pricey but worth it and I love mine. If you're in San Francisco, it's worth a visit to the store.
posted by jeffamaphone at 9:48 AM on October 21, 2014


Some little notes (credentials: I am the founder of Put This On, one of the more successful and sensible menswear blogs):
1) Some folks have been talking up Church's shoes here. Church's were once part of the mid-upper tier of English shoemakers, but they were purchased by Prada and the quality has suffered significantly. Particularly the quality of the leather - they're often (maybe even always) made from corrected-grain these days. That's essentially low-quality leather that's had the top sanded off and replaced with a layer of paint / shiny coating. Less durable, less attractive, will not patinate. Looks shinier new.
2) If you have wide or narrow feet, you'll have a much better time finding appropriate sizes from Alden or AE than you will from the British makers. The British makers do in some cases make different widths, but it's much less of a focus there and basically never makes it here. In contrast, Alden still makes shoes with widths that are different for the heel and forefoot. I, for example, can get a 12 A/C, which is a very narrow heel and a slightly narrow forefoot.
3) I wouldn't say American shoes are more rustic. I'd say they're more American. It's a culturally-derived aesthetic. AEs are a little bulbous for my taste, but I do like Aldens. Italian shoes are sometimes sleeker, but also tend to use Blake-Rapid welting, which is sleeker but a little less durable and resolable.
4) Ecco and Mephisto both make mostly pretty ugly shoes, but if you're looking for something very comfortable and high-quality, they're tough to beat. If you want a more durable and higher-quality version of those awful Merrills, that's a good place to look.
5) Resolability and welting are not really an "investment." It's not an equation that can be solved for cost savings. Certainly they extend the life of a shoe, but they also cost more money and re-soling costs something similar to a cheaper pair of shoes. And at any time you could accidentally gouge or otherwise damage the upper and you'll have messed up your fancy shoes. The costs are, however, less than they might seem at first blush, and the whole time own good shoes, they will be, well, finer shoes.
posted by YoungAmerican at 10:28 AM on October 21, 2014 [12 favorites]


If you're purely looking for durability, high-quality work boots like Red Wings are your best bet, incidentally. They're built to take punishment, and getting scratched, etc, will add to them rather than detract. Something like RM Williams is similar, but a little more refined.
posted by YoungAmerican at 10:32 AM on October 21, 2014


Some folks have been talking up Church's shoes here. Church's were once part of the mid-upper tier of English shoemakers, but they were purchased by Prada and the quality has suffered significantly. Particularly the quality of the leather - they're often (maybe even always) made from corrected-grain these days.

They still do proper calf in their top "custom grade" range, but they're severely overpriced for what they are. And even the custom grade ones are available now in what Church's call "polished binder leather" which is just nasty shiny corrected grain leather - and they charge the same price for that as for calf leather which is, to say the least, cheeky.

Incidentally, the Church family now own Cheaney and are improving things greatly over there, or so I hear.
posted by sobarel at 11:35 AM on October 21, 2014


one employee spending 200 hours to build one pair of shoes.

It doesn't quite say that "Each pair is made by one worker, who spends around 200 hours"

That one worker is probably making dozens of pairs at once, they like to play down the fact that these are factory based production. While not exactly mass production, they are not making them one at a time either.
posted by Lanark at 12:38 PM on October 21, 2014


Crockett Jones and Trickers have women's lines - call the shops, I mean the Jermyn street shops.

Thanks Frowner! I had a feeling you might come to my rescue in this thread. Now to decide if I really have that kind of shoe budget...
posted by deludingmyself at 3:42 PM on October 21, 2014


Ok ... so where can I find good quality second hand shoes??
posted by TheLittlePrince at 7:28 PM on October 22, 2014


ebay, mostly
posted by rebent at 6:09 AM on October 23, 2014


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