"The interior is a world of aesthetic chaos"
November 17, 2017 5:18 PM   Subscribe

Game designer @MaxKriegerVG says "If you want a fully immersive 'postmodern design hellscape' themed dining experience I highly recommend dinner at The Cheesecake Factory—from a design perspective that place is fuckin wild and I'll talk a little bit about why (here's a threadreader compilation for the Twitter-averse). And he links to an Eater story about the designer.
posted by Johnny Wallflower (64 comments total) 21 users marked this as a favorite
 
Oh man. This is great and timely. I was talking about a recent visit to The Cheesecake Factory with some co-workers just last week. About a month ago I ate at this establishment for the very first time. I had been told that it was quite the experience and that the food was good.

To me it was just weird, every aspect of it. I ate the Walden Galleria Mall in Buffalo, NY and I felt like I was in some kind of bizarre alternate reality. Is it possible for a place to feel both expensive and cheap at the same time? I'm at a place called the Cheesecake Factory and I'm eating enchiladas. My table was clean and our servers were pleasant and yet there was a kind of griminess to the entire experience. You know what, now that I think about it, it did feel like I was in a kind of factory, a kind of mass produced object where I'm just being moved down an assembly-line.

I don't think I'll ever go back. I'm glad I went once, for the experience, but it's hard to describe, something about the entire thing made me feel bad. Maybe it's the excess of it all. There's SOOO much food, of every type, of every kind and all of it felt overwhelming to me. Like all my senses were on fire and overstimulated. Maybe I'm rambling, sorry, just had to share.
posted by Fizz at 5:26 PM on November 17, 2017 [15 favorites]


There was an item on the menu called “macaroni and cheese burger.” I am simultaneously horrified and intrigued.
posted by DiscourseMarker at 5:46 PM on November 17, 2017


One of the articles linked in the thread is to this fascinating story, The House of Worship The Cheesecake Factory Built.
posted by Feyala at 5:49 PM on November 17, 2017 [3 favorites]


“It's unchecked white exoticism/orientalism run amok”

“It wants to DISORIENT YOU”
So, Disorientalism?
posted by The Underpants Monster at 5:51 PM on November 17, 2017 [45 favorites]


The Cheesecake factory in downtown SF off Union Square on top of the Macy's is... uh... There is a lack of words in the English vocabulary to describe the slightly anxiety provoking and yet somewhat calming feeling you get when you walk in. Its like instant disassociation with somewhat good food. I'm sure there's a German word. I haven't been back for a while, probably because the benefit of living in SF (one of the) is an absolute ton of great food options from $ to $$$ so why go to the Cheesecake factory? But I'll be damned if I don't suddenly want to go downtown. Weird.
posted by Homo neanderthalensis at 5:53 PM on November 17, 2017 [3 favorites]


Do they ever not tell supplicants it will be an hour wait, no matter how busy it actually is? I, and nobody I've ever gone to the Cheesecake Factory with, has ever had the patience to wait. In downtown Chicago I always wait until the people who Wanted To Go To The Cheesecake Factory start looking squirmy, and then I walk us all a block to Ditka's, where everybody has a good time (really).
posted by lagomorphius at 5:56 PM on November 17, 2017 [5 favorites]


Fizz, you have described how I felt about Elephant Bar, a pan-Asian fusion Texas-based chain that used to have a number of locations throughout SoCal. They were generic African safari-themed, which even for white exoticism is kinda weird for pan-Asian fusion, right? The company logotype was Lithos Black, the furniture was semi-gloss ebon, the menu was glossy and spiral-bound with colorful tip-ins, the waitstaff always gave the hard-sell on specialty cocktails with name-brand® mixers, they had a bunch of "delectable" ice cream-based desserts that were clearly not made on-site... basically the most 90s chain ever. Since 2014 they've closed like half of their locations nationwide.
posted by infinitewindow at 6:00 PM on November 17, 2017 [9 favorites]


"almost reminiscent of a theme park"?

"Almost"?

The Eater piece is interesting, and falls into the developing tradition of MeFi posts on the semiotics of chain restaurant decor: I'm reminded of this epic dissection of TGI Friday's.
posted by Miko at 6:04 PM on November 17, 2017 [6 favorites]


Oh boy, I've always wondered what was going on there! I'm excited to read this.

We're talking VICTORIAN-EGYPTIAN-ROCOCO OFF THE RAILS

I've always called it Egyptian Jurassic Park Villa. 🤷
posted by Nonsteroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drug at 6:20 PM on November 17, 2017 [6 favorites]


The Cheesecake Factory is a diner with pretensions. Its giant menu and desultory dessert case would be unremarkable anywhere off I-95 between Baltimore and Mystic, Connecticut.

But instead of a midcentury chrome box or a vintage railroad car, it's in a McMansion designed by a down-at-the-heels Los Angeles architect, who tries to talk to goth girls about Aleister Crowley.
posted by smelendez at 6:21 PM on November 17, 2017 [39 favorites]


a down-at-the-heels Los Angeles architect, who tries to talk to goth girls about Aleister Crowley

[citation needed]
posted by acb at 6:29 PM on November 17, 2017 [2 favorites]


I loved this just as much I loved another article from earlier in the year, in which we learn that “Despite their deep pocket books, pro basketball players have an appetite for The Cheesecake Factory that borders on cult fanaticism.”
posted by D.Billy at 6:41 PM on November 17, 2017 [2 favorites]


The instant I look at a picture of the inside of a Cheesecake Factory, I’m instantly transported to my childhood, to all the times we got to have cheesecake as a treat, which sounds like a nice memory but is actually kind of a downer.
posted by shapes that haunt the dusk at 6:48 PM on November 17, 2017 [1 favorite]


I just looked into it and find that I live exactly 200 miles from the nearest Cheesecake Factory. This is a fact that causes me no small amount of delight. I thought for sure there would be one in Myrtle Beach, but no, that is in fact a CheeseSTEAK Factory.
posted by Mr.Encyclopedia at 6:49 PM on November 17, 2017 [5 favorites]


The two or three times I've been to the one in the mall that they filmed the bart the dumb mall cop or something like that it was quite the angsty odd experience. I was oddly both disappointed and quietly pleased the last time when I saw a cheesecake flavor that intrigued on the menu AND in a bright display case right out front that they insisted they were out of, and on pointed query the explanation was that it was too frozen and would take too long to thaw. If I need to return I'll bring this thread to read while waiting.
posted by sammyo at 6:52 PM on November 17, 2017


I have now read their entire menu and am preparing. It is on the bucket list. I must go.


I also must fast before I go because I’m getting one of the boozy chocolate banana milkshakes and at least 3 apps.

This is absurd. It’s all so gross and amazing. I can’t wait.
posted by Grandysaur at 7:02 PM on November 17, 2017 [20 favorites]


I would maybe go to the Cheesecake Factory just for the experience but the only one near aways seems to have an hour wait to get in and just no.
posted by octothorpe at 7:30 PM on November 17, 2017


This is absurd. It’s all so gross and amazing.
I'm pretty sure these were Camus' last words.
posted by vorpal bunny at 7:32 PM on November 17, 2017 [25 favorites]


I used to work in a boitique hotel that for better or worse, shared its parking garage with an upscale mall that had - A Cheesecake Factory.

Say what you want about the quality of their food - but that restaurant had basically enough random stuff on its menu such that whenever we ran out if something semi exotic - avocados, bok choy, sausiphy, tarro, purple potatoes, pea tendrils - the cheese cake factory would have it AND they would be very cool about lending us it.

Say what you want about their food, it was great for last minute shopping.
posted by Nanukthedog at 7:55 PM on November 17, 2017 [13 favorites]


a down-at-the-heels Los Angeles architect, who tries to talk to goth girls about Aleister Crowley

[citation needed]


*rolls demo tape of radio ad*

[Cheery female voice]: “Here at the Cheesecake Factory, do what thou wilt shall be the whole of the law!”
posted by mandolin conspiracy at 7:56 PM on November 17, 2017 [44 favorites]


I haven't been to a TCF in ages, but back in the 90s I occasionally hung with a crowd that really liked it. And it always vaguely annoyed me, because the food was no better than Olive Garden but it was something like twice the price. At least Olive Garden was *honest* in their mediocrity.
posted by tavella at 8:03 PM on November 17, 2017 [1 favorite]




The prices look off, I doubt that their main dishes are either 6.5 dollars or 65 bucks. Do they have non-American locations?
posted by tavella at 8:47 PM on November 17, 2017


Ah, it's from Kuwait.
posted by tavella at 8:52 PM on November 17, 2017 [2 favorites]


This is bad classist garbage that doesn’t understand post modernism, history, architecture , or design at all.
posted by The Whelk at 8:55 PM on November 17, 2017 [5 favorites]


: “Here at the Cheesecake Factory, do what thou wilt shall be the whole of the law!”

Which Outback condenses to: “No Rules, just Right”.
posted by wotsac at 9:05 PM on November 17, 2017 [15 favorites]


Which Outback condenses to: “No Rules, just Right”.

The first part makes sense, given that they completely screwed up my last to-go order. The second part, less so.

I've taken to calling them "Outback Mistakehouse".
posted by dephlogisticated at 9:12 PM on November 17, 2017 [5 favorites]


There’s one near my work that’s pretty chill if you go earlier in the week. I’m thinking I might visit it on Monday. And have some bang-bang chicken and shrimp. Megan Amram would probably approve.
posted by rewil at 9:19 PM on November 17, 2017


This is bad classist garbage that doesn’t understand post modernism, history, architecture , or design at all.

The article or Cheesecake Factory?
posted by Literaryhero at 9:27 PM on November 17, 2017 [15 favorites]


MetaFilter: bad classist garbage
posted by Johnny Wallflower at 9:38 PM on November 17, 2017 [6 favorites]


Try the MetaFritters with a plate of beans.
posted by The Underpants Monster at 10:26 PM on November 17, 2017 [7 favorites]


I thought this was the year everyone bashed Olive Garden?

As for The Cheesecake Factory, I'm not a foodie, so the selections would probably be quite delicious to my prole taste buds, but I've heard about their long waits, and that's a deal breaker.
posted by Beholder at 10:51 PM on November 17, 2017


This is bad classist garbage

Criticizing a company that deliberately chooses to situate itself in the market to fleece non-upper-class people with aspirational aesthetics is itself classist, apparently, because we are so poorly-equipped to have these kinds of actual discussions.
posted by Space Coyote at 11:34 PM on November 17, 2017 [22 favorites]


TCF is almost reminiscent of a theme park
[the menu] feels like a god damn playbill

I always read TCF as the classier cousin of Rainforest Café, which was like Chuck E Cheese's for people who knew destroying the rainforest was Bad, M'kay? and took a passive, brute-force overstimulation approach to crowd control at family dinners. The "disorientalism" theory is much more interesting.
posted by All hands bury the dead at 11:34 PM on November 17, 2017 [3 favorites]


Criticizing a company that deliberately chooses to situate itself in the market to fleece non-upper-class people with aspirational aesthetics is itself classist, apparently, because we are so poorly-equipped to have these kinds of actual discussions.

We're talking about a late-night twitter rant making fun of the chain for looking tacky and chaotic. It's not exactly ripped from the pages of Dissent.
posted by shapes that haunt the dusk at 1:57 AM on November 18, 2017 [8 favorites]


Ok, this goes on my list of things do see or do if I ever go to the US.
posted by Harald74 at 3:46 AM on November 18, 2017 [4 favorites]


Cheesecake Factory (just the cheesecake) used to be a special treat when there wasn't one in Portland and I was in the income range where a weekend trip to Seattle with the girlfriend was a big deal.

That said, last Summer I went on a trip to New York City with an international grad school cohort and several of us with NYC experience were sharing tips. When one Queens-raised girl recommended Cheesecake Factory for NY cheesecake I was kind of lost for words...
posted by Skwirl at 4:03 AM on November 18, 2017 [3 favorites]


I always wait until the people who Wanted To Go To The Cheesecake Factory start looking squirmy, and then I walk us all a block to Ditka's, where everybody has a good time (really).

literally what happened when i was there at a conference and several in our party fascinated by the potential ironic weirdness really really wanted to go (except we ended up at Gino's East, not Ditka's, because grad students)
posted by halation at 4:52 AM on November 18, 2017 [4 favorites]


Ok, this goes on my list of things do see or do if I ever go to the US.
posted by Harald74 at 6:46 AM on November 18 [1 favorite −] Favorite added! [!]


If you really want a better view into classic Americana fast dining, I personally recommend watching people enter a Cracker Barrel. I don't suggest eating there, but... wait til the line is long, and people are strewn out across the rocking chairs on the porch and then go place your name at the hostess stand - not that you want to eat there... but... if you want to understand the hell that is American dining... recognizing that we scrapped local restaurants and went to a walmart-like chain which prevents actual local restaurants from being able to make a foothold, to support shitty food, long lines, and commercialism at its finest - Cracker Barrel is like getting an American Flag blended into a smoothie as an early bird special.
posted by Nanukthedog at 5:10 AM on November 18, 2017 [9 favorites]


I don't suggest eating there

I have other problems with Cracker Barrel, but I do like the food. And at least while you wait you can play with the golf-tee games. I've done a lot of XC road trips and this place has its benefits when you're otherwise in the middle of nowhere.

I hear the accusations of classism and stuff. At the same time, these are exploitive institutions that pander, remove the ownership and profit class from local economies, pump people full of salt, carbs and sugar, negatively impact local expressions by creating bizarre comparables, and it's not like they're actually affordable for low-income people anyway. Defending cynical corporate food capitalism as it replaces indigenous food and design culture with centrally-designed "aspirational" crap and siphons profits to David Overton and his small group of contractors is not the socialist hill I'm planning to die on.
posted by Miko at 5:20 AM on November 18, 2017 [23 favorites]


I'm feeling ambivalent to the argument that slamming the CF is classist per se. The place is not fine dining but it's not exactly dirt-cheap, you know? It's been a while since I've been to one but I recall it being a bit more expensive than the average American "casual dining" megachain. (And, in any case, the prices at any American casual dining megachain are invariably higher than warranted by the quality of the food.)

In other words, the Cheesecake Factory is not marketing their food to actual poor people. So I think this is possibly less of a class thing and more of a "two Americas" thing. To me, the Cheesecake Factory looks like a bizarre explosion of poor taste, serving unremarkable food in an unpleasant setting at rather inflated prices. To some other people with incomes similar to mine, the Cheesecake Factory looks like a special treat! A destination for a fun night out with friends!

Am I being elitist here? Yeah, I think I probably am. But it's less about money and more about culture, I think. I've had the privilege of living in places that afford me access to legitimately good food, and I belong to a segment of American culture that (perhaps wrongly) values the idea of "authenticity" in a way that makes the Cheesecake Factory look tacky.

Or perhaps this is a class thing after all, because class is about more than income. After all, it's still not impossible to earn six figures a year doing skilled blue-collar work, and to do it in a place where that money goes much farther than it would in a coastal metropolis. But a tradesperson in flyover country surely has less social capital than a young professional in New York, even though the tradesperson can probably, like, afford to own a house and the twentysomething yuppie is paying out the nose to rent an uncomfortably small apartment. Culturally, they may sneer at each other with mutual distaste.

I think our discourse regarding class in America is hobbled by the difficulty we have in teasing apart money from social capital, education, and other factors. Maybe this is a legacy of the myth of American social mobility.

Regardless, sniping at each other over whether making aesthetic judgments regarding the interior design at a chain restaurant is or is not classist strikes me as kind of unproductive when there are so many people in America who not only can't afford to eat at the Cheesecake Factory but also, like — can't afford to eat.
posted by a mirror and an encyclopedia at 6:19 AM on November 18, 2017 [28 favorites]


My parents (dad and stepmom) are square in the demographic for this. After I'd been estranged from them for awhile, my stepmom made an opening gesture and asked me to meet her at TCF. To her, this was Fine Dining and I took it in the spirit in which it was intended. When I was growing up, Olive Garden, Chi Chis, etc were for Special Birthdays and Graduations. They were blue collar union workers and so we weren't poor. Now that they're retired and have cushy pensions (remember those!!!) they could eat almost wherever they want. But they really like the predictability of the chains and they genuinely find the decor "fancy." (Starbucks - and i am totally serious here - is "pretentious hipster stuff.") (Guess who they voted for.) (Fortunately they've come to regret it.)

Interestingly, my mom and stepdad DID grow up dirt poor. I mean living in a one room house with siblings at the end of a dirt road in Arkansas poor. And yet now that they're comfortably retired from upper middle class jobs they eat at genuinely good places. They'd wrinkle their nose if I invited them to Cracker Barrel. Classism is confusing.
posted by AFABulous at 6:24 AM on November 18, 2017 [10 favorites]


(Mom and stepdad voted for HRC so I think the comment above mine about two Americas has merit. All my parents live on about the same income after retirement.)
posted by AFABulous at 6:26 AM on November 18, 2017 [3 favorites]


There was a brief period when my kids were growing up where special occasions had to be at TCF and I always had to take half a Klonopin before entering because otherwise I'd look around the place, get overwhelmed and have the beginning stirrings of a panic attack.

I'm really glad that was a short-lived phase.
posted by yes I said yes I will Yes at 6:49 AM on November 18, 2017 [1 favorite]


I've been to a couple of CFs, and have found that they make more sense to me if I think of them as all existing in the Las Vegas strip, actual location be damned.
posted by Jon Mitchell at 6:51 AM on November 18, 2017 [15 favorites]


The article's focus on how disorienting the busy decor at TCF is reminds me of that documentary Room 237, which shows how the interior of the hotel in The Shining was designed to have a spatially "impossible" layout that left the viewer with an indescribably creepy uncanny valley effect without resorting to cheap jump scares. The article really put a finger on something for me that I couldn't quite articulate myself.
posted by jonp72 at 7:10 AM on November 18, 2017 [2 favorites]


One of the articles linked in the thread is to this fascinating story, The House of Worship The Cheesecake Factory Built.

I highly recommend that people in the thread at least skim this. It suggests that the aesthetic of The Cheesecake Factory is a result of the founder's involvement in a strain of Sufism associated with the 70s era guru Meher Baba. The "busy" aesthetic may not be the result of postmodernism or cheap chic, but the founder's religious syncretism.
posted by jonp72 at 7:17 AM on November 18, 2017 [7 favorites]


> This is bad classist garbage that doesn’t understand post modernism, history, architecture , or design at all.

No. Cheesecake Factory is literally preying on the lower-class and exurban public's assumptions about how high-quality restaurants work. This is with regards to the service (the long pointless waits), the decorations (elaborate without esthetic), the prices (needlessly inflated), and the quality of the food (mediocre).

I'm lucky to have access to multiple restaurants nearby that are mostly or fully locally-sourced organic food, one of them being a Parisian-style (their words) steakhouse, which are better on all counts than Cheesecake Factory and cheaper too.

I mean, Cheesecake Factory is a particular kind of mall restaurant that has evolved into providing a particular kind of experience regarding atmosphere, service, and dining, and if that's what you're after, I won't tell you that you're wrong to pursue it. But don't call me out as classist for identifying CF as one of those places that are deliberately and cynically parlaying a particular set of expectations against the people carrying them.
posted by ardgedee at 7:17 AM on November 18, 2017 [15 favorites]


I'm glad he addressed the Eye of Sauron light fixtures. I've been to a Cheesecake Factory maybe three times in my life and every time I've found those things sinister as hell.
posted by thivaia at 7:39 AM on November 18, 2017 [1 favorite]


You know you're … if you think social class is based on …

lower/working :: Money
middle :: Education
upper :: Taste
posted by goinWhereTheClimateSuitsMyClothes at 10:04 AM on November 18, 2017 [6 favorites]


So which chains are considered decent? Other than In-N-Out, I can't remember anything I've read that was complimentary towards any of them.
posted by Beholder at 10:06 AM on November 18, 2017


I have been to CF a bunch of times, because when I worked remote for a company in suburban DC it was the best-case restaurant to take a team of 6-8 to lunch and find something on the menu that suited everyone's tastes and food sensitivities. (That is the one thing a 49-page menu is good for!) The food is totally fine, although if I recall, the portions were always so large we almost never managed to eat any actual cheesecake.

I do wonder if this is one of the class of restaurants that Millenials are killing, because man, the price point, the aesthetics, and the general vibe seem really really aimed at someone other than the Kids These Days. (The article mentions that CF is significantly expanding its delivery service, which does make sense, because the food, as everyone seems to agree, is just fine.)
posted by restless_nomad at 10:10 AM on November 18, 2017 [1 favorite]


the Eye of Sauron light fixtures

There are other interpretations of those lights.
posted by Johnny Wallflower at 10:13 AM on November 18, 2017 [1 favorite]


I really liked their Navajo sandwich sans chicken: lettuce, tomato, onion, avocado and aioli on freshly-made frybread. The bastards took it off the menu.
posted by Johnny Wallflower at 10:20 AM on November 18, 2017


So which chains are considered decent?

I really like Dairy Queen and hope nobody shows up with some dirt on it.
posted by traveler_ at 11:27 AM on November 18, 2017 [2 favorites]


My favorite article about the Cheesecake Factory is Atul Gawande's, comparing their kitchen forecasting, staffing and management to what a hospital should be. It's not even creepy to read, because the management is recruited from the cooks, and the cooks can work their way up from entry level, and while there's a lot of algorithmic support for each recipe they also depend on the cooks' tacit knowledge, and staffing with some slack, and constant but respectful feedback. Lots of labor is more alienated than that.

The interiors may be tacky, but so is worrying about being tacky, and they remind me of opera sets as much as anything which is interesting to be in.
posted by clew at 11:42 AM on November 18, 2017 [10 favorites]


This is bad classist garbage that doesn’t understand post modernism, history, architecture , or design at all.

Um, no. Postmodernism is about blending together the best design elements from around the world and throughout history that either co-ordinate or contrast in interesting (and hopefully beautiful) ways. The Cheesecake Factory has done the exact opposite, randomly hurling together the dregs of what's left over after postmodernism is done in a senseless and disordered hodgepodge that is, quite literally, painted the colors of...vomit. I can't go there again. It makes my eyes sad.
posted by sexyrobot at 11:59 AM on November 18, 2017 [2 favorites]


Even with a limited attempted at trying to respect other people's tastes and opinions it does gut me that people come to Chicago and eat at the Cheesecake Factory in the base of the Hancock rather than at the hundreds of great restaurants that are just a few blocks away. Many are even cheaper!

And what happened when my Mom visited and we were on the Mag Mile? Goddammit. However they did have a passable beer battered fish and chips.
posted by srboisvert at 5:26 PM on November 18, 2017 [1 favorite]


So which chains are considered decent?

Popeyes seems to be the fast food it's cool to like for younger urban folks lately.
posted by Space Coyote at 9:06 PM on November 18, 2017 [1 favorite]


Everyone I know seems to have a love for Taco Bell, but that may be because there’s only like two locations in all of the Chicago Loop/Northside. Familiarity breeds contempt and all that.
posted by Windigo at 11:37 PM on November 18, 2017


I enjoy Cheesecake Factory. Tell me, what other restaurants nowadays is even trying to replicate the grandness of an opera house and have really high ceilings? And letting me have avocado eggrolls in the meantime?

Sometimes you just need a version of a food that is less than sublime, but still tasty.
posted by yueliang at 8:15 AM on November 19, 2017 [1 favorite]


I've only been to a casino once. It was stuepfyingly large, and stupefyingly gaudy - the carpet was a riot of incoherent color; the fake planters and fake marble statues drew from every "exotic" culture simultaneously; everything was lurid for the sake of being lurid. It was, in fact, disorienting.

That's the closest thing I've seen to the TCF aesthetic. TCF is a little...I don't want to say nicer, but...less syphilis-y, maybe? But it's otherwise cut from the same cloth. TCF is a casino, minus gambling, plus overpriced and uninspiring chain-restaurant food.
posted by escape from the potato planet at 12:18 PM on November 19, 2017 [1 favorite]


This is bad classist garbage that doesn’t understand post modernism, history, architecture , or design at all

I want A) Guy Fieri's take on this and B) a book explicating this thesis, to be called To The Cheesecake Station.
posted by octobersurprise at 1:54 PM on November 19, 2017 [1 favorite]


In relation to the class/politics angle on this:
Keurig, Papa John's, and the Politicization of American Junk (NYer): There is something grotesque, demoralizing, and entirely fitting, in the Trump era, about seeing Americans act out political grievances through the quotidian and joyless consumer products that populate our lives, of seeing quick coffee and takeout pizza become the emblems by which we are left to define ourselves and the hills on which we die for our imagined ideals. And it is fitting, too, that Keurig brand battle has been cheered on and magnified by Russia-affiliated Twitter bots, another example of how the agents of propaganda recognize how moored our notions of civic engagement have become to our sense of ourselves as consumers, and how easy that fact is to aggravate and exploit.
posted by Miko at 7:37 AM on November 20, 2017 [2 favorites]


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