The Elusive Perfect Shave
May 25, 2008 4:10 PM   Subscribe

No more waiting on gas prices. It's time to indulge in a little luxury: the elusive perfect shave.
posted by merc (63 comments total)

This post was deleted for the following reason: Self-link. -- cortex



 
Let me be the first to say: "This razor, it vibrates?"
posted by SpecialK at 4:12 PM on May 25, 2008


About 10 years ago I noticed that electric worked really well on the chin area but not so good everywhere else, and razors worked well "everywhere else" but not so good on the chin area.

It took me a couple of months, but I've found combining the two (electric before the shower to get the chin and razor to get everywhere else) gets me out of the bathroom in about 2 minutes.

Men who want to futz longer in the bathroom with creams and shit should consider sex reassignment surgery.
posted by tachikaze at 4:14 PM on May 25, 2008 [2 favorites]


what's with the health tag?
posted by srboisvert at 4:19 PM on May 25, 2008


P.S. I shave with a switchblade wearing hipster glasses while riding my fixie during critical mass and listening to Death Cab for Cutie. It's not the closest shave but it leaves me feeling cool, mostly because of blood loss.
posted by srboisvert at 4:22 PM on May 25, 2008 [21 favorites]


For men who want to futz longer in the bathroom with creams and shit

You shave and take a shit in two minutes? You, sir, are missing out on the finer things in life.
posted by phaedon at 4:23 PM on May 25, 2008 [4 favorites]


Previously.
posted by Tube at 4:31 PM on May 25, 2008


mantic59 is my hero.
posted by carsonb at 4:35 PM on May 25, 2008


That is, mantic59 as featured at Tube's previously link.
posted by carsonb at 4:37 PM on May 25, 2008


I use an actual razor and shaving cream, but the truth is that you cut the shit out of your face with an actual razor unless you're a girly-man without a heavy or bristly beard. I think it's worth it, but it isn't obviously better if you're a dude that has actual facial hair instead of fuzz.
posted by Justinian at 4:55 PM on May 25, 2008


Wow, is it that time again?
posted by lekvar at 4:58 PM on May 25, 2008


The car? Land Rover.
The dog? Rottweiler.
The razor? Bush Hog.
posted by seanmpuckett at 5:02 PM on May 25, 2008


Why did you do that? Scrape off your hair?
posted by not applicable at 5:35 PM on May 25, 2008


My goal in life is to make this my new hobby. I shave twice every morning with my Mach 3, going against the grain, and by noon, I look like Nixon. I want a clean, close shave that lasts. Also, my blades go useless after 2 uses. I am going to read all that is in this link, and try to conquer this pain in the ass.
posted by Senator at 5:38 PM on May 25, 2008


Malarkey? Or Effective way?
posted by turgid dahlia at 5:41 PM on May 25, 2008 [3 favorites]


If you can't find Proraso cream, go to Bath and Body Works and pick up the C.O. Bigelow version. It's the same great stuff.

Frankly, I'm too afraid to go the Merkur DE route. If I'm going to give it a try, it's going to have to be on a long weekend so I have time to recover from the blood loss.
posted by schoolgirl report at 5:42 PM on May 25, 2008


Previously
posted by acro at 5:42 PM on May 25, 2008


It appears the rumor that Trumper's has gone the track cartridge route is true. That said, they still have useful tips on the process.
posted by IndigoJones at 5:43 PM on May 25, 2008


I had entertained this idea for years, and the last post about wet shaving along with a trip to Costco to get Mach 3 blades tipped me. For less than a 100 buck initial investment I got a razor, 50 plus blades of all kinds, a very nice brush, a couple of soaps, alum block, and all matter of associated stuff. Giovanni Abrate himself answered the phone when I called Razor and Brush and talked me into spending half what I had budgeted. Plus sent some small but cool surprises. Two weeks and I haven't cut myself (yet) and while I won't be a nerd about it, for me this is most excellent. So fast I am usually disappointed and can't wait to shave again. Not for everyone, but for the chosen ones, simply damned amazing. That's all.
posted by dawson at 5:48 PM on May 25, 2008 [3 favorites]


Okay, I'll admit it: I don't have a goddamn clue about shaving. I do a half-assed job with an electric razor a couple times a week.
posted by danb at 5:59 PM on May 25, 2008


I've been shaving my entire head, in addition to my face, for 8 years, and in my judgement, the perfect razor is the Gillette Custom Deluxe twin-blade disposable that you can get in a 10 pack at CVS for about $8. I don't quite know why its perfect, but it just is. I've tried other brands with more blades, and they just don't do it like this one.

A couple years ago, when TSA started putting restriction on fluids in carry-on luggage, I switched from canned shaving cream to soap and a brush. Cheap Williams shaving soap and an (apparently uncharacteristically soft) boar bristle brush.

It works great. The soap and lather are some of the slickest (as in slipperiest) things I've ever run across.

Some day I'll be able to afford the badger brush and the Crabtee and Evelyn soap, but for now, I get a pretty good shave with this stuff.
posted by hwestiii at 6:00 PM on May 25, 2008 [1 favorite]


Dawson, can you tell me what you ordered (specifically), I think I might call Giovanni and give this a go.
posted by Senator at 6:15 PM on May 25, 2008


Once every month or so, straight razor, dry. Takes 3 minutes, voila. What's with the fetishization?

"If you want a real ass-wiping experience, try the tight-weave hemp paper, $12.95 / ream, available from Sykes-Picot of Kuala Lumpur, followed with a rinse of lavender-milk water. Some people skimp and use purified still water, but the lavender milk helps to refoliate and sterilize the dermis. You won't believe how clean your ass will be..."
posted by Meatbomb at 6:26 PM on May 25, 2008 [5 favorites]


Well Giovanni will steer you right I'm confidant. Why I ended up with is 'more' than he suggested, but not excessively so,
brush: Omega 63325. $37. For razor I got a Merkur34HD, chrome, $31. He also suggests for the starter, to instead get a Weishi, for $13.50. Blades are cheap, but I got a sampler pack, his EastCoast, Extended, 60 blades for $19.50, plus he threw in another 10 or so.
I told him I was new and 'nervous' and he even gave me tips via phone, more than once. You can contact him via this page. I later ordered 2 Tryphon brand soaps for 25 bucks, but he'll send you a soap stick gratis, and really help you with deciding what you want and need. Just a really excellent shopping experience.
posted by dawson at 6:39 PM on May 25, 2008 [1 favorite]


WHAT I ended up with I meant. For me it's not a fetish or even a hobby, just a nice way to shave my mug.
posted by dawson at 6:41 PM on May 25, 2008


I've been using a safety razor for almost 2 years now. If you want to get into this, know the following:

1. You need to be really, really careful at first, so set aside at least 30 extra minutes for shaving. You'll eventually get back down to more or less your old time. Add some buffer time between shaving and going out for any cuts to clot.

2. As a corollary to #1, it takes different people different lengths of time to get good. Some people have reported getting the knack in a couple weeks. It took me almost 6 months (shaving once every 4-5 days) to get good and then another 6 to do it naturally. I still don't do it flawlessly. If you can get someone to teach you, you'll have a great head start.

("Good" in #2 means "not a bloodbath," while "naturally" means "just a few cuts at most")

3. Furthermore, everyone's face is different. There are plenty of forum posts about shaving with/against/across the grain on what parts of the face. Forget those and look at and feel your beard to understand where it goes. If you go against the grain, you at least double your chances of cutting yourself (but some, like me, can't get a smooth shave without doing so).

4. Follow general rules, like "don't shave a patch that doesn't have shaving cream on it," religiously. That sounds like common sense, but you'd be surprised.

5. People love to spend money needlessly; you don't have to be like that. Take a shower first, get some decent cream/soap, a brush, and a nice aftershave. Forget pre-shave oils, balms, potions, lotions, and other nonsense. Use baking soda if you want. Notice that mantic59 didn't mention them in his "Can't Hardly Miss" video. He does mention the various grades of badger brushes. I haven't tried boar or synthetic brushes, but I wonder whether the difference could really be that drastic. I can tell you that you don't need a big one, though. I used a travel-size one for a while until I got a bigger one as a gift. The improvement was marginal at best. The brand of blade does make a difference. Look for bulk specials.

6. Boil any secondhand razors you buy before the first use. It's also a good way to clean them.

Good luck. I advise against donating blood before you've been doing this for a few weeks.
posted by Grimp0teuthis at 6:41 PM on May 25, 2008


All you guys looking for a perfect shave: assuming that pain and expense weren't issues, would you ever consider laser hair removal on your face and neck? Or would you want to keep the option of getting all bristly and manly if and when you really wanted to?
posted by maudlin at 6:44 PM on May 25, 2008


I used to fuss with a safety razor, then only straight razor shaves from my barber, then I tried the Mach 3, Mach 4, mach 5 and I settled now on the Fusion, no soap. Shave after a hot shower using hot water and no soap with the fusion and Im good to go. Once up -> down, once down -> up.
posted by subaruwrx at 6:49 PM on May 25, 2008


"Shaving soap" is a marketing con just like canned foam and gels. What's wrong with plain old hand soap? Works perfectly for me, with a badger hair brush.
posted by cbrody at 6:53 PM on May 25, 2008


A badger hair brush is all right, for the pikers and fifteen year olds who are cultivating that "did I just have some chocolate milk or is it a mustache look", real men rip the head off the badger (preferably Mauritanian NOT the ones from Brussels, which are actually a kind of non-swimming water rat, think Nutria but unable to swim or even float) and lather that up with some Vendigliani Otrusco, which is a Sicilian emollientie di priapari (lit. boner cream). By all means use an English lavender scented creme if all you are going to do is spend the rest of the day comparing man purses down at the emo-record shop, but if you are trying to emulate the real leading male lights of the century you are going to need at least the Vendigliani, the scent of which Graham Greene once noted "... most resembles that of toasted almonds, with perhaps just a tint, a mere suggestion, of stale urine."

Finally using a blade at all smacks of Oscar Wilde on poppers levels of limp-wristedness (you might as well try to have some kind of man-baby and spend the rest of your life baking orange zest muffins). Real men, true men, (like Kaiser Wilheim, the last actual MALE man who ever lived) merely lather up and then, elbows clasped tightly to the sides, perhaps two inches above the kidneys, sprint at top speed towards a coral reef at low tide and with a last light (but masculine) leap, scrape off 1/18th of their face, per side, per day. If no coral is available it is best to grow a beard, as attempting the same thing on pumice or god help us, volcanic rock is akin to living ones' life as a Spaniard.
posted by designbot at 6:57 PM on May 25, 2008 [11 favorites]


Head shaver for fifteen years, face shaver for 30+. Leg shaver off and on, depends on if I'm racing. Mach 3 turbo and Nivea gel. Badger hair, soaps - they are fun fetishes, if that's what you are into. I'd rather take my time preparing a really nice meal than dicking around in the bathroom.
posted by fixedgear at 7:23 PM on May 25, 2008


People have such a strange tendency to hate.

This is a new device, and the reactionary impulse is to praise "the perfect shave" - an old fashioned, singular-bladed death tool of yesteryear. This modern apparatus from Gilette is simply marketing shenanigans.

Yet, a post or two down, there is much hand wringing on the desire of the youngish crowd to embrace fixed gear bicycles, a design from 20 years ago or more.

Sometimes, old stuff is ok. Other times, it's just a dumb fad. Who decides?

I guess the algorithm is one where other people's joys, those which you have not adopted personally, are things to be hated.

I ride a fixed gear, my girlfriend is Chinese, I have a star tattoo, I use a badger brush to shave, and I live in San Francisco. So, am I 85% hated? Maybe just 60% since I work for Apple? Or does that pump it up to 90%?

What I'm saying is: more love, less hate.
posted by plexi at 7:26 PM on May 25, 2008


Yeah, I don't get the heated vitriol and knowing snickers this subject brings up, it's almost amusing. And of course I don't mean just in this thread. By all means use whatever you want to when shaving, or hell, just don't shave. It's not a big issue. Thankfully I'm not so busy that I have to choose between shaving and cooking. Sometimes I can even squeeze in a shower.
posted by dawson at 7:34 PM on May 25, 2008


fixed gear bicycles, a design from 20 years ago or more. Or maybe 100+ years or more.
posted by fixedgear at 7:36 PM on May 25, 2008


You shave with a fixie? Isn't that like using the world's biggest epilady? And wouldn't a derailleur really offer you a wider variety of options: baby smooth; 5 o'clock shadow (Flintstone); 5 o'clock shadow (Nixon); Miami Vice; George Michael; etc.?
posted by maudlin at 7:53 PM on May 25, 2008


All you guys looking for a perfect shave: assuming that pain and expense weren't issues, would you ever consider laser hair removal on your face and neck? Or would you want to keep the option of getting all bristly and manly if and when you really wanted to?

I'm holding out hoping that bristly and manly comes back in style one of these days.
posted by Octoparrot at 8:01 PM on May 25, 2008


I shave twice every morning with my Mach 3, going against the grain, and by noon, I look like Nixon.

I don't think a shave is going to fix that sort of problem.
posted by krinklyfig at 8:13 PM on May 25, 2008


"So, basically, my beard is an airhead filter...". Some say the beard is making a comeback.
posted by dawson at 8:13 PM on May 25, 2008


I just don't understand why people don't use shaving oils. They're simply the best and if you're maintaining a beard or 'stache they leave it luxuriant and soft. Plus they feel good and smell nice and if you miss a bit when rinsing, you don't look like a dork going around with a clump of shaving foam dangling from your ear.
posted by turgid dahlia at 8:36 PM on May 25, 2008


I use the badger brush and shaving cream. Also like using Sharp's Kid Glove shave gel.

I still like my Mach 3. I have a Merkur, but mainly use it for detailing, like those elusive whiskers where the nose meets the upper lip. The Mach 3 doesn't cause me blood loss, and is more consistent.
posted by Mondo at 8:48 PM on May 25, 2008


The kids today
Will rant and rave
If they bring back
Burma Shave
posted by champthom at 8:51 PM on May 25, 2008 [2 favorites]


As far as wetshaving goes, what is the difference between the soap and the shaving cream?
posted by Senator at 9:03 PM on May 25, 2008


Senator, I don't know well enough to articulate it really, but it comes down to preference. Many use both, though not at the same time (although I've heard of that as well). Points 5 and 6 at this link might be of help. And ask Gio when you phone him.
posted by dawson at 9:32 PM on May 25, 2008


I just clicked on the Razor and Brush page of badger brushes someone linked to above. My immediate reaction was amazement that so many different shaving brushes are actually being manufactured. What a strange world, that so much effort and ingenuity is expended on small brushes for smearing soap on your face.

(Also, is the company in the FPP link an offshoot of one of those speed-seduction guys? Some of the language seems really familiar, but I'm not sure.)
posted by Forktine at 11:23 PM on May 25, 2008


Man, fuck a bunch of shaving. My whiskers are so thick that I have to scrape a razor like 3 times over the same spot to get everything. I've just worn a full beard instead for like 5 years now. That way, all I have to do is trim it with scissors every week or 2. Try it sometime, dudes.
posted by DecemberBoy at 12:02 AM on May 26, 2008


I hate these damn threads. What is this, the fourth one? Nuts to all of you Luddites. FUSION POWER 4 EVA, JIM KILTS REPRAZENT.
posted by ikkyu2 at 2:02 AM on May 26, 2008


"so set aside at least 30 extra minutes for shaving"

What the fuck? What are you doing, cutting each hair individually?

I could shave my entire hairy Celtic-Jewbo body pelt in 30 minutes, never mind my beard.

I shave with an old safety razor (which I have done for years because I'm cheap bastard) straight out of the shower while the stubble is soft, and it wouldn't take 5 minutes.
posted by i_am_joe's_spleen at 2:16 AM on May 26, 2008


Once a week, I take an electric hair trimmer, the kind the army uses to give buzz cuts, over my whole face and head. I don't bleed, I get everything, the ritual takes 10 minutes, and cleaning and cost are minimal. It's like shaving with a lawn mower, and the trimmer sounds like one and weighs about as much. Cuts anything. I look stubbly all the time, which is badass. The machine is foolproof, only an on-off switch and slight bit of oiling before use. I can shave with a head full of sweat. Then dash in the shower, wash with washcloth and bar soap, and I'm done. Is that not, I ask you, the perfect shave?
posted by saysthis at 2:20 AM on May 26, 2008


I've always wanted to shave with a straight razor but never found anywhere I can buy one (and a strop for sharpening it) without spending a fortune. I've been using single bladed disposable razors since I stopped shaving my head, and the cost factor will probably push me to a safety razor with disposable blades. $5 for cartridges is a waste of money, even if they are quicker by half, I don't usually get a close shave with one.

It's worth mentioning that in my experience you get a *lot* closer shave if you are using a cream, soap or foam, it's not just to make it easier on your skin.
posted by Dillonlikescookies at 2:42 AM on May 26, 2008


Giovanni Abrate himself answered the phone when I called Razor and Brush and talked me into spending half what I had budgeted.

Hey, I know Giovanni! I've ordered a bunch of fountain pen repair supplies from his other business, Tryphon. I guess he has more than one anachronistic business.

I highly recommend doing business with him, although I'll personally stick to my Gillette Fusion...
posted by mmoncur at 3:57 AM on May 26, 2008 [1 favorite]


....while double edge replacement blades will only cost you around $.50 cents.

And you can get them at the 0.99 cent store.
posted by Killick at 7:49 AM on May 26, 2008


Yeah, I don't get the heated vitriol and knowing snickers this subject brings up

I think it's because it's the Nth time (5th, 6th?) time we've seen a single-link "the perfect shave!" post.

That, and the link seems awful spammy. Flag.
posted by mrgrimm at 10:50 AM on May 26, 2008


Whatever works for you. For me it's sitting in a hot bath, with a few seconds underwater and then a light film of ordinary soap. I use a disposable triple-blade with a soap strip on it. I tell my sons that the secret is to always shave with the hair, not against it, which for me means always shaving towards the jawline. I haven't nicked myself in years and my harshest critics (the family) declare me to be "smooth".
posted by mdoar at 11:26 AM on May 26, 2008


thanks for the flag mrgrimm, it's obvious that I'm a spammer and part of a grand conspiracy trying to shell razors on the blue.
posted by dawson at 11:37 AM on May 26, 2008


trying to shell razors on the blue.

Sell? Shill?
posted by fixedgear at 12:34 PM on May 26, 2008


I picked up a Schick Injector after the last FPP. My Mach 3 is in the trash. The razors cost 1/4 as much, the shave is much better, and just as easy, and less irritating.
posted by mek at 12:46 PM on May 26, 2008


For shaving creams and aftershave, for my money you cannot beat Nancy Boy I swear by their signature shaving cream, particularly in a bowl with a brush - all nice and warm, it's just invigorating and relaxing. The price is totally right, too.
posted by redbeard at 3:17 PM on May 26, 2008




Shall she sell Schick shill, still?
posted by turgid dahlia at 9:26 PM on May 26, 2008




Senator - To answer your question and cbrody's snark, shave soap has clay (bentonite or kaolin) in it. Helps the blade slide across the face easier.
posted by ObscureReferenceMan at 9:39 AM on May 27, 2008 [1 favorite]


"assuming that pain and expense weren't issues, would you ever consider laser hair removal on your face and neck?"

Yes. Since I can't grow anything but permastubble. Unfortunately, cost is a concern, as is my African-American heritage (which, according to Wikipedia, makes the treatment work less well). Pain not so much. Not really fond of either burning or bleaching of my skin due to laz0rZ, either, nor acne flareup. But I'd love to be permanently depilated in certain areas (lower face/jaw/sideburns/moutharea, back of the neck, for those with dirty minds).
posted by Eideteker at 3:49 PM on May 28, 2008


"assuming that pain and expense weren't issues, would you ever consider laser hair removal on your face and neck?"

I would consider it for my ears, the three hairs that grow out of my nose and my unibrow.
posted by fixedgear at 4:40 PM on May 28, 2008


I've always had trouble with ingrown hairs, razor burn, and general unhappiness with shave quality -- I have an unusually coarse beard and fairly sensitive skin, which is a bad combination. So, I finally broke down and figured I'd give this a try. I copied another poster in one of our multiple shave threads, and ordered a Merkur #34C and an Omega 63325 from Razor and Brush, with Omega shave soap, and the Proraso aftershave. R&B was kind of slow about responding to my initial query, but shipped promptly once we exchanged some emails. Seems like a nice guy.

I'm honestly not sure that the badger brush is that big a deal. A lot of people praise these things to the skies, but I dunno -- it's a brush, it seems to make lather okay, but it doesn't do it like magic or something. It might be that I need a true shave mug like my father had, rather than trying to lather up in the soap container. It's quite gentle, and I can't imagine it irritating anyone's face. I imagine a boar brush would be fine to start with for most folks. They're much cheaper.

The 63325's handle, btw, is plastic. I thought it was wood from the picture, but it's semi-transparent plastic. I don't particularly care what it looks like; all I care about is functionality. If appearance matters to you, though, a brush with a less transparent handle will probably look better. It has a few straggly hairs, and it's lost four or five in the first week, but overall it seems pretty good.

I don't know if I have an unusually forgiving razor or not, but even with the sharpest blades available (Personnas and Feathers), I have yet to nick or scratch myself. Zero blood loss. If this is a normal safety razor, and I have no way to easily compare, I think you'd have to be something of an idiot to be scared of these things. I haven't cut myself in years while shaving, while using my typical Schick Slim Twin razors, and I fully expect I could shave for years more with the Merkur #34 in equal safety. I bought a styptic pencil just in case, and it sits there, lonely and unopened.

Oh, as an aside: the 34 is a pretty short razor. It's nicely balanced and works very well, but don't make the mistake of thinking it will telescope. I took mine apart trying to make it longer, and putting it back together was kind of a pain. There's a compression ring that holds the bottom of the razor in, and getting it compressed again was a bit tricky.

Blades are a lot different than they used to be. They're extremely thin these days. The blades my father used to use were big, thick things, and you had to strop them with your thumb for a bit to remove burrs, or you'd scratch yourself when shaving. These modern blades are barely thicker than aluminum foil, and incredibly sharp. Mounting the blade in the razor seems to be the trickiest part; they're so thin and easy to drop that my instinct is to grab the sharp sides. So far, I've managed to restrain myself from doing so.

With the 34, the easiest method seems to be to take the top, hold it upside down, mount the blade on the posts, and then attach the lower half of the razor. As you screw the bottom in, the blade bends into a semicircle, which I suspect adds strength.

As I've learned the razor, my shaves have been steadily improving. Today's was really remarkably good. It's important to use a very light touch when shaving, with short strokes for best control. You just barely scrape the razor on your face. I'm finding I need about three passes to get the best results. Each time requires a new application of shave soap, so don't rinse out your brush too soon. I also find that's easiest to touch up the last bits by using a little aftershave to find the bits of remaining bristle, and then make one last quick pass with the razor to remove them. Again, you use a featherlight touch. So far, I've avoided razorburn, which I'm sure is at least partially due to the excellent Proraso balm, and my last shave was just freaking awesome.

My remaining question is this: how much of the improvement is from the soap and more care with technique, and how much is the actual razor? So, I plan to let my beard grow out an extra day, and then try the soap, aftershave, and careful technique with the regular old Slim Twin razor to see how much of a difference it makes. I'd like to try to separate the fetishization of the process from the actual results. I have ZERO interest in 'a shaving ritual', I just want a really excellent shave with the minimum possible side effects, and, preferably, the minimum possible effort and expense.

The full-on approach does indeed seem to work very well, but do you need the whole shooting match to get good results? That's what I'll be experimenting with. I'll try to follow up in a few days with further thoughts.
posted by Malor at 7:18 AM on June 5, 2008


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