"Ala ZongGoNin! Ala YouTaNin!".
Jerry Moses last walked on Gaoyang Road in 1947. It was called Chaoufoong Road then, and it was home to many of the 18,000 European Jewish refugees who had sought refuge from Nazi Germany in Shanghai's Hongkew District
(today known as Hongkou) during the run-up to World War II
. He casts his gaze at the lane, his brow loosens and he begins to nod. "This is it, this is it," he says softly. "I know this is it." One week into his first visit to Shanghai
in almost 60 years, Moses has found his third home in an exile that lasted from 1941 to 1947. He strides into the space, his manner now much closer to that of the 12-year-old boy who had left than the 70-year-old man who has returned. More inside.
A Tale of Two Chinas,
by photographer James Whitlow Delano
Whole swaths of cities have vanished
, to be transformed with developments that have quickly made them look more like Houston, Qatar, or Singapore than the ancient China
of our mind's eye. The old hutong, or alleyways, of Beijing that once formed a mosaic of passageways and the siheyuan, or walled courtyard houses, have been largely razed
. The old brick rowhouses of Shanghai, are now being leveled and replaced by modern high-rises. Traditional marketplaces, residential neighborhoods
, streets where medicine shops or bookstores bunched together, are now either gone or have been rouged up as tourist destinations
, part of a new synthetic, virtual version of China's incredible past.
The energy fueling this transformation bespeaks a powerful but often blind, unquestioning faith
in an inchoate idea of progress that takes one's breath away
, often literally. (Unrestrained growth has left China with the dubious honor of having 9 of the 10 most polluted cities in the world). Delano
's new book is
"Empire: Impressions from China
". More inside.
When Nike founder Phil Knight
first traveled to China
in 1980, before Beijing could even ship to U.S. ports, the country was just emerging from the turmoil of the Cultural Revolution
. By the mid-'80s, Knight had moved much of his production to China
from South Korea and Taiwan. But he saw China as more than a workshop. "There are 2 billion feet out there," former Nike executives recall his saying. "Go get them!". The Chinese responded
(the goal was "to hook kids
into Nike early and hold them for life"): sales through the 1990s picked up 60% a year. Here's how Phil Knight did it.
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