The Wasabi Challenge!
September 18, 2014 2:05 PM   Subscribe

Wasabi is the most difficult plant to grow commercially. "The first thing to know about wasabi - or Wasabia japonica, as it's officially known - is that you have probably never tried the real thing. That light green paste nestled next to the pink ginger in your box of sushi? It is most likely a mix of mustard, European horseradish, and food colouring. In fact, by some estimates, only 5% of the wasabi served in Japanese restaurants around the world comes from the rhizome, or root, of a wasabi plant." "For nearly 30 years, Brian Oates has, in his words, "pig-headedly" devoted himself to a single pursuit: setting up the first commercial wasabi farm in North America."

"Dozens of others in the US and Canada have tried to grow the plant - a type of horseradish that originates in Japan, where it is found growing naturally in rocky river beds - but almost all have failed.

The reason is simple: wasabi is deemed by most experts to be the most difficult plant in the world to grow commercially."

"Fetching nearly $160 (£98) per kilogram at wholesale, in addition to being hard to nurture, wasabi is also one of the most lucrative plants on the planet."
posted by VikingSword (68 comments total) 44 users marked this as a favorite
 
So you're telling me that these wasabi ginger potato chips I've been enjoying are made of lies?

8(

Oh well, all life is illusion anyway, or something. I love me some fake wasabi and nothing has made me happier than to see its recent ascendancy in the pantheon of contemporary snack food and downmarket fusion cuisine flavorings.
posted by prize bull octorok at 2:15 PM on September 18, 2014 [10 favorites]


I feel like about two years ago I read an article in The Oregonian about wasabi farmers on the Oregon coast. All I was able to find were a couple articles about the purchase of a wasabi farm in Florence [1] [2]
posted by polecat at 2:20 PM on September 18, 2014


I've been semi-following this guy's efforts for a few years now, ever since I first caught wind of it. As the story alludes to, the big initial problem was getting seeds or rootstock out of Japan. I may be mistaken, but I could have sworn I once read that it was actually illegal to take them out of the country.

The first time I encountered "wasabi" was back in the early 80's at what was then the only sushi restaurant in Indy. I had no idea what that green paste was on my tray. So...I ate it. Just popped the thing back in one shot.

Then, I ordered another beer. Quick!!!
posted by Thorzdad at 2:23 PM on September 18, 2014 [1 favorite]


I really kind of want a sharkskin wasabi paddle now.
posted by prize bull octorok at 2:24 PM on September 18, 2014


Though I haven't visited Uwajimaya in Beaverton, Oregon for at least the last 6 months, the last time I was in there they were selling wasabi rhizomes in the produce area. I'll have to head back over there and see if they still stock it.
posted by jgaiser at 2:29 PM on September 18, 2014 [3 favorites]


I had no idea! Harder than ginseng?

Fortunately I don't like whatever it is that I've had that gets called for wasabi. On the other hand, now that I know that something out there exists - I must have it.
posted by IndigoJones at 2:30 PM on September 18, 2014


I have a goal to one day eat real wasabi.

Achieving that goal will cost you $70.
posted by mr_roboto at 2:30 PM on September 18, 2014 [3 favorites]


For those in Vancouver, Hitoe Sushi on W 4th Ave serves real wasabi. I didn't expect it when I first went there and it took me by surprise! I immediately knew that this was something different and they just smiled at me knowingly when I asked them about it. Affordable and excellent sushi, too!
posted by WaylandSmith at 2:31 PM on September 18, 2014 [14 favorites]


I am sure many others know more about this than I, but in my experience, sushi restaurants will usually state on the menu that they serve real wasabi, which is grated to order, or will offer a choice with a small additional charge. You can always ask the server or sushi chef, as well. It's worth trying the real thing as the flavour is far richer and way more subtle both on its own, and on sushi and sashimi.
posted by buffalo at 2:38 PM on September 18, 2014 [1 favorite]


""Dozens of others in the US and Canada have tried to grow the plant - a type of horseradish that originates in Japan, where it is found growing naturally in rocky river beds - but almost all have failed.

The reason is simple: wasabi is deemed by most experts to be the most difficult plant in the world to grow commercially."


That's not a reason, that's just a restatement.

I hate it when writers do that. And when editors allow it.
posted by IndigoJones at 2:40 PM on September 18, 2014 [48 favorites]


My pre - prepared wasabi is in trouble with the ACCC then, coz it says it has W Japonica in it, and I just bought it from the supermarket.
posted by wilful at 2:42 PM on September 18, 2014


Also, in Pittsburgh, where I live, Chaya, in Squirrel Hill, uses real wasabi, as does the newer Fukuda, in Bloomfield (for a surcharge).
posted by buffalo at 2:44 PM on September 18, 2014 [2 favorites]


I love real wasabi too, but I probably would have quit after 25 years.
posted by haricotvert at 2:45 PM on September 18, 2014 [2 favorites]


If you live near a mitsuwa you can buy small rhizomes there for a not absurd tariff.
posted by JPD at 2:56 PM on September 18, 2014 [2 favorites]


How different does real wasabi taste from the green stuff I get with sushi that tastes to me pretty much like horseradish? Don't get me wrong, I love me some good quality horseradish, but I am curious.
posted by Greg_Ace at 2:59 PM on September 18, 2014


It differs by about seven and one quarter standard flavor units.
posted by Wolfdog at 3:01 PM on September 18, 2014 [13 favorites]


After having soba with real wasabi I can't deal with the green stuff. I'd rather have my soba without than put up with that crap.
posted by Runes at 3:09 PM on September 18, 2014


It doesn't taste all that much different. I was disappointed after we acquired 100% legit real wasabi from Japan. I thought it would taste much better but it's not hugely different.
posted by fshgrl at 3:10 PM on September 18, 2014 [1 favorite]


I wonder how the taste differs from the fake stuff.
posted by shakespeherian at 3:10 PM on September 18, 2014


That's not a reason, that's just a restatement.

And the reason? IndigoJones doesn't enjoy it when people just restate stuff without adding value. He prefers it when people put something new on the table.
posted by forgetful snow at 3:12 PM on September 18, 2014 [20 favorites]


"So you're telling me that these wasabi ginger potato chips I've been enjoying are made of lies?"

Off-topic, but I thought I'd mention limon and Tapatio-limon chips by Lays are bonkers-good.

Carry on. Nice FPP.
posted by joseph conrad is fully awesome at 3:15 PM on September 18, 2014 [1 favorite]


I ordered real wasabi for the restaurant I worked at, excited to try the real thing...it tasted like horseradish.
posted by Dmenet at 3:27 PM on September 18, 2014 [5 favorites]


Off-topic, but I thought I'd mention limon and Tapatio-limon chips by Lays are bonkers-good.

Once we bought the Tapatio chips by accident and they were the only chips we had in the house. We were hungry but they're surprisingly hot. I dubbed them "aversion therapy potato chips."
posted by GuyZero at 3:31 PM on September 18, 2014 [5 favorites]


How different does real wasabi taste from the green stuff I get with sushi that tastes to me pretty much like horseradish?

More subtle, less of a punch, and much more floral. I've only had 100% (as in saw it grated with my own eyes) real stuff once though.
posted by feckless fecal fear mongering at 3:37 PM on September 18, 2014 [1 favorite]


Just like any other fresh product, wasabi varies in flavor and intensity. It's kind of finicky to store, too, which is where the grating it to order thing comes in, but even if you've got it whole there's keeping it at the right temperature and humidity and the luck of how it grew. I've had plenty of fresh wasabi in my life and when it's good, it's great, absolutely wonderful with raw fish and in plenty of cooked dishes too. But when it's mediocre it's just fancypants horseradish. Which is still nice, but not the same. It's still better than the green paste stuff, but not better than actual horseradish in a tiny amount.

For people asking what the difference in flavor is, in my experience it's vastly more floral, and sort of pungently green, if that's a flavor. It's stronger, but the spiciness fades faster, leaving a lingering taste of freshness to work with whatever you've paired it with. You need less of it but you want more of it. The texture is a little different too - of course this depends on how it's grated - but I think it sticks to fish better. It's smoother and less grainy than the green paste. If you've ever had truly fresh horseradish, take down the spice level a few notches and add in a whole complex of leafy flowery flavors. Almost like the smell of a really excellent green tea, but a taste, with the spice of a horseradish or even a raw ginger.
posted by Mizu at 3:42 PM on September 18, 2014 [26 favorites]


It's better with oysters than white horseradish is, also. Kumamoto oysters, a spritz of yuzu, and some fresh wasabi grated on. Heaven!
posted by feckless fecal fear mongering at 3:48 PM on September 18, 2014


There was a strange ginseng mania in BC in the 1980s and 90s. You'd be driving along and pass a farm with a bunch of frames covered in shade cloth, and there'd be a sign by the road displaying the farm's stock market symbol. I wonder if wasabi will be the same?
posted by Flashman at 3:56 PM on September 18, 2014 [2 favorites]


my first wasabi....was also my first California Roll. It was green. Cali loves avocado...therefore, this must be guacamole...Oh! Hell ya! I need more than a tablespoon for a bite!

I saw white light as my face melted and I forgot to breathe.

posted by shockingbluamp at 3:57 PM on September 18, 2014 [12 favorites]


Ha! I did that on my 14th birthday. My dad's girlfriend told me it was a delicacy, and you eat the entire blob in one go to cleanse your palate.

I could see through time.
posted by feckless fecal fear mongering at 3:59 PM on September 18, 2014 [26 favorites]


The Beaverton Uwajimaya is still carrying wasabi, with both the daruma and mazuma varieties usually in stock. It seems to wander between the produce section and the pre-cut sashimi case, so if you don't see it maybe ask an employee.

Certainly expensive compared to the fake stuff, but $20 will get you a decent sized nub.

It's a nice culinary splurge; however, expect something far milder than what you're used to. If you want face melting, the fake stuff is much, much better (for that, I like S&B prepared wasabi).
posted by a box and a stick and a string and a bear at 4:05 PM on September 18, 2014


Just like any other fresh product, wasabi varies in flavor and intensity

OK good I'm not crazy then. The only time I am certain I tried fresh I found it quite mild compared to the fake stuff.
posted by Hoopo at 4:32 PM on September 18, 2014


'the hardest plant to grow'

There's a reason the BBC put those scare quotes in their clickbaity title. Wasabi may be hard to grow but it's not the hardest. Saffron, for example, is more difficult to cultivate.
posted by foobaz at 4:36 PM on September 18, 2014 [1 favorite]


Truffles (while not technically a plant) are also fiendishly difficult.
posted by feckless fecal fear mongering at 4:37 PM on September 18, 2014 [1 favorite]


There's at least one commercial producer in Tasmania (via Google).
posted by Joe in Australia at 4:42 PM on September 18, 2014 [1 favorite]


Speaking of mushrooms, I don't think chanterelles are commercially grown either
posted by dabug at 4:43 PM on September 18, 2014


"So you're telling me that these wasabi ginger potato chips I've been enjoying are made of lies?"

Probably made from dyed horseradish grown near Collinsville, Illinois. Something like 70% of the world's commercial horseradish crop is grown within 60 miles or so.

This has been today's episode of Random! Midwestern! Agriculture! Facts! with Eyebrows McGee.
posted by Eyebrows McGee at 4:55 PM on September 18, 2014 [28 favorites]


Somehow I doubt our local hibachi/sushi place has real wasabi, but maybe some of the places down in Portland (right coast) have them.

Speaking of mushrooms, I came across this article yesterday. Dude is from Vermont and a professional forager. My husband remembers picking chanterelles with his Mom as a kid, as well as some others. But this guy takes it to a whole new level.
posted by Marie Mon Dieu at 4:56 PM on September 18, 2014 [2 favorites]


Umi in San Francisco.
posted by jeffamaphone at 5:12 PM on September 18, 2014


Next you'll tell me this truckstop restaurant burger isn't Kobe beef.
posted by ODiV at 5:15 PM on September 18, 2014 [1 favorite]


I <3 pig-headed devotion. Good on you, Brian Oates!
posted by grobstein at 5:16 PM on September 18, 2014


(And a double-snort to piggy friends for modeling good behavior!)
posted by grobstein at 5:16 PM on September 18, 2014


I must seek this out next time I'm in Vancouver!
posted by arcticseal at 5:21 PM on September 18, 2014


i have a tube of wasabi in my fridge, the light green horseradishy thing that muddles in soy sauce and tastes good when chunks of fish are cooked in it or bathed in it raw, and true wasabi is what i and the people like me say it is.
posted by bruce at 5:23 PM on September 18, 2014 [3 favorites]


Wasabi is difficult to cultivate because it has unique requirements. To start your wasabi farm you will need clean cool moving water, high humidity, mild tempuratures. Hypothetically to start your wasabi farm you would need to grt some land at the right elevation in the Coast Range of Oregon with a stream and just enough sunshine, but not too much, nor so far down in a valley that it is too dark. Now get the appropriate water rights and environmental permits to mess with the stream and plant the wasabi. In about 3 years your first crop will mature. If the deer, rabbits or other pests don't eat it, and it doesn't die from some random other cause.
posted by humanfont at 5:25 PM on September 18, 2014 [4 favorites]


This is like when I found out Santa was fake.
posted by cjorgensen at 5:32 PM on September 18, 2014 [1 favorite]


I had a friend who raved about wasabi, how she lurved wasabi so much. I asked her, "Do you like horseradish sauce?"

She made a face. "Ew, no."

"Well, the wasabi you eat at the local sushi place is just horseradish with green food coloring."

She stopped raving about wasabi after that.
posted by zardoz at 5:36 PM on September 18, 2014 [4 favorites]



It's better with oysters than white horseradish is, also. Kumamoto oysters, a spritz of yuzu, and some fresh wasabi grated on. Heaven


Well, I was having a fine day till I read this and realized my life was drab and incomplete :(
posted by BlueHorse at 5:54 PM on September 18, 2014 [6 favorites]


This is like when I found out Santa was fake.

YOU TAKE THAT BACK!!!
posted by Celsius1414 at 6:09 PM on September 18, 2014


"Well, the wasabi you eat at the local sushi place is just horseradish with green food coloring."

To be fair it's not exactly the same, and they don't taste exactly the same. The horseradish you get for roast beef tends to have a lot of vinegar and sugar which she could be objecting to.
posted by Hoopo at 7:04 PM on September 18, 2014 [2 favorites]


I adore horseradish. This doesn't bother me.
posted by DirtyOldTown at 7:20 PM on September 18, 2014 [1 favorite]


This is like when I found out Santa was fake.
YOU TAKE THAT BACK!!!


They meant Satan. Satan is fake. Stupid autocorrect.
posted by DirtyOldTown at 7:27 PM on September 18, 2014 [2 favorites]


I used to think that I could grow wasabi in a fresh water fish tank with proper circulation and when the time came I could be launched into space to preserve humanity. Like the Bruce Dern character in Silent Running - teaching nethack to the gooey big eyed aliens for fun and music to confuse when I finally found "aliens".

I gave up that notion when I realized I'd have to bring a cat and the cat would nom me in my interstellar sleep pod.

Also I like horseradish becuase the heat is mitigated by digestion. I would like you to send me some Wasabi.
posted by vapidave at 7:33 PM on September 18, 2014 [3 favorites]


true wasabi is what i and the people like me say it is.

Well, uh, no? That's like saying true orange juice is made by Sunny D. It may taste nice, but there is a Thing That Is Actually Wasabi and then there's mustard and white horseradish and green food colouring.
posted by feckless fecal fear mongering at 8:00 PM on September 18, 2014 [2 favorites]


I like the mustard and horseradish wasabi on my paleo kale and cauliflower-gratin sushi.
posted by Joe in Australia at 9:00 PM on September 18, 2014


Snap.
posted by feckless fecal fear mongering at 9:03 PM on September 18, 2014 [1 favorite]


There's at least one commercial producer in Tasmania (via Google).
posted by Joe in Australia at 7:42 PM on September 18 [+] [!]

Yup. Apparently about a dozen growers in Tassie and three or four in Vic.

If you're keen to grow your own Shima, Diggers Club Nursery, Four Seasons Herbs, the Victorian DEPI (see citations), and the Commonwealth RIRDC are all happy to help.. (last two links pdf, last one probably the best.)
posted by Ahab at 9:03 PM on September 18, 2014 [5 favorites]


Sometimes I dip them in soy sauce made from coconut aminos.
posted by Joe in Australia at 9:03 PM on September 18, 2014


Stop it, Joe, you're making me hungry.
posted by Ahab at 9:07 PM on September 18, 2014


I'm sort of like this guy in the sense that I also had the idea of growing wasabi in North America. I was setting up my garden and trying to come up with vegetables to plant that were expensive or hard to find, and it seemed like an obvious choice. Where we differ, though, is that I got about 3 minutes into reading about the growing conditions it requires and gave up on the whole scheme.
posted by contraption at 10:11 PM on September 18, 2014


Real wasabi might be better than fake wasabi, but it's still not as good as Sci-Fi Wasabi
posted by Perko at 10:16 PM on September 18, 2014 [2 favorites]


Huh, no one has been growing it in the US?

It's been grown on and off in New Zealand since the 90s. It's the marketing side they have trouble with.
Otago Crop Database
The growers definitely don't get offered $160 a kg. The only ones that have survived, process and market the product themselves, as wasabi powder, and even in capsules as nutritional supplements.

Of those, you can check out the site - https://wasabi.org/products/namida-100-pure-wasabi-powder/
4 kg fresh wasabi, to 1kg dried (at $340 per kg), makes it $85 per kg for fresh, but that's direct to consumer. Take off marketing and profit margin?

Also, you can buy a plant for about $15 US on the NZ equivalent of Ebay - Wasabi for sale

So I figure if you're just growing it wholesale, I'd guesstimate more like $20-30 a kg.
posted by Elysum at 10:16 PM on September 18, 2014


If anyone in the Bay Area wants to try real wasabi without having to trek to Japan, Sushitomi in Mountain View offers generous servings for a mere $2.50 on the sushi menu.

Or order it from Half Moon Bay Wasabi Company.
posted by MikeKD at 10:40 PM on September 18, 2014


I had wasabi growing in a pot on my porch. It was such a pain to get the watering schedule and shade just right, but when I did, it really started to thrive. I was so excited. Then a squirrel dug it up and ate the root. Bastard.
posted by [expletive deleted] at 8:22 AM on September 19, 2014


but do consumers really want it ? Could this be like folks who'd rather have the fake maple syrup than the real thing ? (which seems to run about 80/20 in favor of the fake corn syrup nasty stuff, in my experience .. )
posted by k5.user at 10:31 AM on September 19, 2014


I love real wasabi too, but I probably would have quit after 25 years.

Judging by the alternative medicine woo on his web site, I don't think he's really after the restaurant market, lucrative as that may be.
posted by sneebler at 12:27 PM on September 19, 2014


IMO, there's a distinct difference between real wasabi and the green horseradish paste you get at most places. Real is very floral, not as spicy by half, and has a different consistency and mouth feel.

It's very much like the first time I made my own fire-roasted habenero sauce from a recipe that distinguished itself from all others by not having vinegar in it. The outcome was so floral, with a hint of sweetness that I'd never tasted before in a hot sauce. And yet it was still hotter than blazes, as befits a true habanero hot sauce. If you don't have facilities to char peppers (and dear sweet jeebus, ventilate properly. If you do it indoors, you are asking for trouble) then the closest commercial product I've ever found is Kutbil-Ik.

In conclusion, spicy sauces are a topic of contrast.
posted by Purposeful Grimace at 5:16 PM on September 19, 2014


Real wasabi update: Just tried my new local sushi joint (new to me, as I just moved neighborhoods) in West Seattle. Mashiko does the real wasabi for $3 extra thing, definitely worth it, at a price point and serving size bound to satisfy a wide variety of Seattle palates.
posted by Mizu at 11:33 PM on September 21, 2014


the closest commercial product I've ever found is Kutbil-Ik.

Omigosh, this stuff is fantastic. Why did nobody tell me about this sooner.
posted by Wolfdog at 2:43 PM on September 22, 2014


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