crunchy, crispy, meaty sailboats of spicy chemical flavor
March 30, 2015 10:18 AM Subscribe
[E]ven though the restaurant's cartoonish decor bordered on offensive, it was still a temple to a people and a cuisine that America couldn't ignore. Taco Bells were everywhere. In every strip mall. Off every highway exit. Even the racists, the immigrant-haters, the people who'd laugh at my elementary-school stand-up comedy routine would run for the border.John DeVore writes about finding the "unexpected, self-affirming solace" of home... at Taco Bell.
You can laugh or sneer at Taco Bell. Shake your head at its high fat and salt content. Go ahead and lecture on what true Mexican food is. My mom would probably just roll her eyes at you, and take a broken yellow shard of crispy taco shell and use it to scoop up the pintos, cheese, and salsa.
More from Eater's ongoing Life in Chains series, "where writers share the essential roles played in their lives by chain restaurants—great and grim, wonderful and terrible..."
- How to Achieve Teenage Immortality at Perkins by Chris Clayton: "If it's true you always hurt the ones you love, then we must have really loved Perkins."
- Giving Thanks at Cracker Barrel by Cari Wade Gervin: "Even if you can afford to buy a turkey, even if you have the time to cook and are healthy enough to do so, even if you have a family large enough to eat all the leftovers, making a Thanksgiving dinner is still seriously a pain. Of course people are eating Thanksgiving at Cracker Barrel! Why wouldn't they? Why wouldn't everyone?"
- Beginning and Ending at TGI Fridays by Sara Benincasa: "I pushed my food around my plate and I didn't eat it, but it was okay because we were at TGI Fridays, where nobody bothered you about finishing your meal or asked you if you’d finished your art project or how your mother was. At TGI Fridays, you could be the you you wanted to be, and that day I wanted to be anonymous."
- When Flight 370 Vanished, I Was at the Beijing Airport Starbucks by Anne Burt: "When everything is chaos, a cup of coffee helps."
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