The Inventor of Green Bean Casserole Has Passed On
October 26, 2018 12:21 PM   Subscribe

The Kitchn.com notes that the woman who created the nearly-ubiquitous American Thanksgiving favorite green bean casserole has passed away at the age of 90 at her home in New Jersey. Dorcas Reilly, a Campbell's Soup test kitchen supervisor, created the dish in 1955 at the request of an Associated Press reporter looking for simple holiday recipes.

The basic dish consists of just four ingredients - green beans, Campbell's Cream of Mushroom Soup, milk, and "French fried" onions. It's almost hard to believe that the dish had to be invented and didn't simply appear fully formed, like Athena from the brow of Zeus, in some church basement, but Mrs. Reilly deserves kudos for devising a dish so quintessentially American that every grandma in the country takes credit for it. Campbell's says that 40% of the sales of Cream of Mushroom soup go towards the preparation of this casserole each year.
posted by briank (48 comments total) 22 users marked this as a favorite
 
Gonna pour out a 40z can of fried onions for this pioneer.

.
posted by MiltonRandKalman at 12:27 PM on October 26, 2018 [43 favorites]


It's almost hard to believe that the dish had to be invented and didn't simply appear fully formed, like Athena from the brow of Zeus

I've read 19th century cookbooks, it needed to be invented.
posted by rhizome at 12:35 PM on October 26, 2018 [10 favorites]


Absolutely shocked that she wasn't from Minnesota, or at least somewhere in the upper midwest.
posted by theory at 12:42 PM on October 26, 2018 [10 favorites]


Dang, I'd never even considered that it had a single creator.

Of all the "low class" food out there, it's one of my faves. I'll definitely have to make some this weekend.
posted by sotonohito at 12:44 PM on October 26, 2018 [4 favorites]


Dorcas Reilly, you did good. (Great name, too!)
posted by Atom Eyes at 12:52 PM on October 26, 2018 [4 favorites]


Thanksgiving has already come and gone on this side of the border, and this pinnacle of 1950s cookery has never been served in my family, but I feel like I should start a new tradition and serve this at Christmas, since my wife and I are hosting dinner at our house for the first time this year.
posted by asnider at 12:53 PM on October 26, 2018 [6 favorites]


I would like to point out that everyone who likes this is really just dealing with Stockholm Syndrome.

Article I read said that people in the company didn't like it until she cajoled and forced them to keep trying it, until they finally said "FINE!"

I like to think that parallels how my mother had hoped to get me to eat them.

I didn't take the bait like the rest of the suckers.
posted by symbioid at 12:56 PM on October 26, 2018 [12 favorites]


Last time I made green bean casserole, I made Alton Brown's recipe, which was a mistake, and nobody ate it. We're hosting Thanksgiving this year (egad) and I'm threatening to make it again. Maybe I shouldn't mess with the classic this time (although canned green beans are right out).

My mother insists we never made this, but I have fond memories of eating the onions straight from the can with my grandmother, and I can't imagine any other reason for them to have been in the house.
posted by uncleozzy at 12:57 PM on October 26, 2018 [5 favorites]


Campbell's says that 40% of the sales of Cream of Mushroom soup go towards the preparation of this casserole each year.

Having grown up in the upper Midwest, I find this shockingly high, but I guess other places don't have the rich panoply of Cream-of-Mushroom–based cuisine that we do.
posted by nebulawindphone at 1:01 PM on October 26, 2018 [25 favorites]


Cannot stand green bean casserole, but love this woman's story regardless.

I'll, um, look at one in her honor.
posted by rokusan at 1:02 PM on October 26, 2018 [14 favorites]


I'd also be curious to know what percentage of the sales of those crispy onion things is accounted for by her recipe. I'm guessing it might be even higher than 40%.
posted by Atom Eyes at 1:04 PM on October 26, 2018 [7 favorites]


Oh goodness yeah even in the midwest there is no fucking excuse for those creepy onion things except to put on green beans.
posted by nebulawindphone at 1:06 PM on October 26, 2018 [4 favorites]


I have also tried the Alton Brown version and it was way more fussy than it needed to be. Give into the Cream of Mushroom soup, Alton! Give in!

Love the dish, it is one of the signs of fall, just as much as a pumpkin or hand-outline-turned-into-a-turkey.
posted by fifteen schnitzengruben is my limit at 1:10 PM on October 26, 2018 [4 favorites]


green bean casserole is great because its one of those foods that just cant be improved upon by making the component parts from scratch (i speak from experience). sorry alton.

this is giving me lots of feels though - because i love to cook and love cookbooks perhaps too much - i was just reading this article on eater two days ago: Omnivore Books Owner on Why Cookbook Authors are the New Rockstar Chefs and it made me think about how, for all of the issues with the food industry at large and cookbook publishing/social media in particular - things like diversity and representation and struggling with being transparent about sponsorships and corporate relationships), how great is it that a home cook like Deb Perlman from Smitten Kitchen, Rhee Drummand from Pioneer Woman, or Nik Sharma (of a brown table/kitchen and the fantastic new cookbook Season) can turn a passion into a career on their own terms . . . where Dorcas Reilly did pretty much the same things that have made modern food bloggers and writers famous but behind a corporate veil in obscurity.
posted by Exceptional_Hubris at 1:15 PM on October 26, 2018 [4 favorites]


Stolen from the internet: Services will be held at 350 for 25 minutes.
posted by logicpunk at 1:18 PM on October 26, 2018 [43 favorites]


.

I love easy modern food like this. Green bean casserole ingredients were already on our shopping list - it's been cold and I've been tired.
posted by bagel at 1:37 PM on October 26, 2018


I can't recall seeing the cans of fried onions in a store, perhaps they only appear in November and disappear by New Years.
posted by tommasz at 1:51 PM on October 26, 2018


slivered almonds 4 me thanks, you can keep the cream of mushroom soup
posted by thelonius at 1:52 PM on October 26, 2018 [1 favorite]


Dorcas Reilly did pretty much the same things that have made modern food bloggers and writers famous but behind a corporate veil in obscurity.

But it sounds like she had a salary and probably even a pension, so did not need fame to flourish.

Similarly, in Hippie Food, there's a woman with a syndicated newspaper column who published whole-grain and vegetarian recipes (among others) for decades without becoming famous the way a few of the 1920s mystics and 1960s hippies did. I can't remember her name and I read the book last week.
posted by clew at 2:33 PM on October 26, 2018 [3 favorites]


Human brain: I feel like I should start a new tradition and serve this at Christmas

Galaxy brain: I can have this with dinner anytime!

Universe brain: I can have this for dinner anytime.
posted by GCU Sweet and Full of Grace at 2:33 PM on October 26, 2018 [14 favorites]


My mom hates mushrooms and makes hers with cream of onion and use those crunchy chow mein noodles as toppings. I haven't found cream of onion since moving away, so I make do with cream of mushroom.

I can't make roast chicken without making green bean casserole. It's not chicken dinner without it.

Honestly, the chicken mostly winds up being leftovers for the week. It's green bean casserole with a side of crispy chicken skin.
posted by ghost phoneme at 2:36 PM on October 26, 2018 [1 favorite]


The way my mom always made it with french-cut green beans, although it appears Dorcas' original recipe didn't call for that. Trust me though, it makes the dish so much better.
posted by allkindsoftime at 2:40 PM on October 26, 2018 [6 favorites]


.

Thomas Keller has a green bean casserole recipe I'd like to sub in at a future Thanksgiving. It's not going to happen with our current roster who only accept the fallout shelter compatible recipe.
posted by cmfletcher at 2:44 PM on October 26, 2018


My mom hates mushrooms and makes hers with cream of onion

I doubt an actual mushroom has ever come within 50 yards of a vat of Campbell's cream of mushroom soup.
posted by Atom Eyes at 2:45 PM on October 26, 2018 [4 favorites]


Having grown up in the upper Midwest, I find this shockingly high, but I guess other places don't have the rich panoply of Cream-of-Mushroom–based cuisine that we do.


Hugely popular in my house, growing up in Georgia, though it’s not a tradition, per se.

I still add a can of cream of mushroom soup to chicken thighs when I’m fixing them in the crock pot. Add some stock, a dash of balsamic vinegar, olive oil, onion powder and garlic powder, and it makes an awesome low-fuss chicken soup. Shred the thighs when they’re done (with forks) or leave them whole. Crusty bread on the side and you’re golden!
posted by darkstar at 2:47 PM on October 26, 2018 [6 favorites]


Cream of X + rice+ chicken/pork, throw in a baking dish and toss in the oven. Add microwave veggies and a salad. There's my childhood.

I need to go find some pork chops and cream of onion. It's perfect weather for that kind of dish.
posted by ghost phoneme at 2:56 PM on October 26, 2018 [4 favorites]


Campbell's is selling cream of bacon soup now.

Cream. Of bacon.
posted by GCU Sweet and Full of Grace at 3:07 PM on October 26, 2018 [9 favorites]


.
At my house, we only use frozen French-cut green beans, as mentioned above, and it really takes it to a better place over canned and not-French-cut. I heartily recommend it. And I use almost double the amount of fried onions, by mixing the onions throughout the casserole, and then put a (not so) healthy serving on top.
posted by honey badger at 3:13 PM on October 26, 2018 [1 favorite]


I came mainly to say that french fried onions are definitely readily available in stores year-round. I know this because I buy them "for ramen" and then eat them directly out of the (6-ounce plastic tub...I'm not sure I see them in cans) as sort of condensed versions of onion potato chips. I've never had green bean casserole, and I might never yet, so it's strange to imagine one of my solid snacking options only associatively through another dish.
posted by Earthtopus at 3:24 PM on October 26, 2018 [1 favorite]


French fried onions are an ingredient in this pretty-good vegetarian torta. (The product also turns up in frittata recipes.)
posted by Iris Gambol at 3:42 PM on October 26, 2018 [2 favorites]


If you drive on I-44 between, say, Tulsa and St. Louis as I do a few times a year, you'll pass by a (the?) French's plant where they make the fried onions just West of Springfield, MO right off the highway. If the conditions are right, you can smell them from a few miles away. It was super-weird the first time I didn't know it was there and suddenly got a big whiff of them.
posted by Ufez Jones at 4:15 PM on October 26, 2018 [3 favorites]


At my house, we only use frozen French-cut green beans, as mentioned above, and it really takes it to a better place over canned and not-French-cut.

(1) same, and (2) I don't know this fussy Alton Brown recipe everybody's talking about but a few diced, sauteed button mushrooms in there never hurt anybody either.
posted by penduluum at 4:26 PM on October 26, 2018 [1 favorite]


I feel like I should start a new tradition and serve this at Christmas

In our house, nobody ever makes them 10 months out of the year, but family tradition says we have to make them on Christmas, possibly optional for Thanksgiving given the number of other vegetable sides requested.

You have to make enough that the whole can gets used, otherwise it sits till it gets tossed out next holiday. That's OK, it's better reheated.

This year we will make them for Thanksgiving, and a toast will be raised to Dorcas.

.

I'm sure she ascended the giant bean stalk to the Great Kitchen in the sky.
posted by BlueHorse at 5:26 PM on October 26, 2018 [1 favorite]


My wife wrote a masters thesis on the rise of packaged food and the test kitchens that they spawned — as soon as I saw the AP version of this story yesterday I immediately had to send it to her. Not that green bean casserole is necessarily edible if you didn’t grow up with it, but still.

Carrot salad is mourning a fallen friend.
posted by Quinbus Flestrin at 5:27 PM on October 26, 2018 [5 favorites]


I have never, ever cared for that casserole. Something about the beans and the soup flavors just don't mix right for me. But thanks for the Thomas Keller version linked above - if I had to, I'd make either that or Stephanie Izard's version. At least with the components broken out into "from scratch" versions, a knowledgeable cook has room to tweak the flavor into a better direction.

(Though I'd rather have a classic Green Beans Amandine, or green beans sautéed with bacon and a splash of Balsamic vinegar, any day.)
posted by dnash at 6:14 PM on October 26, 2018 [1 favorite]


tommazs: I can't recall seeing the cans of fried onions in a store

They are for sale at Trader Joe’s today!
posted by wenestvedt at 8:01 PM on October 26, 2018 [1 favorite]


I ate the Trader Joes, um, upscale version of this the other day, a haricot verts kit. I figured I could save money next time by just buying mushroom soup, just like my mom did in Minnesota (of course).

I had no idea there was a Green Bean Lady; I thought this was a Mom Thing.

Hats off to you, Dorcas!

.
posted by GospelofWesleyWillis at 10:20 PM on October 26, 2018


.
posted by filtergik at 4:51 AM on October 27, 2018


I love green bean casserole. Just without the green beans. Or the mushroom soup. Or the casserole dish.
posted by Splunge at 11:44 AM on October 27, 2018 [1 favorite]


(Though I'd rather have a classic Green Beans Amandine, or green beans sautéed with bacon and a splash of Balsamic vinegar, any day.)

Sauteed with bacon and balsamic is heading in that direction, but you might look up recipes for good ol' southern style green beans
posted by GCU Sweet and Full of Grace at 12:17 PM on October 27, 2018 [1 favorite]


My family never made this, so when I decided I wanted to have it I made it from scratch with a Cook's Country recipe. It's delicious.

FYI, you can get the fried onions year round. They are near the bacon bits and croutons near the salad dressing.
posted by apricot at 4:17 PM on October 27, 2018 [1 favorite]


It's almost hard to believe that the dish had to be invented and didn't simply appear fully formed, like Athena from the brow of Zeus, in some church basement, but Mrs. Reilly deserves kudos for devising a dish so quintessentially American that every grandma in the country takes credit for it.

Is it possible that it's just a regional thing or part of a specific subset of American culture? Asking because my family's been here 8 generations and the first time I've ever heard of this dish is just now with this post. Have never had any.

Campbell's says that 40% of the sales of Cream of Mushroom soup go towards the preparation of this casserole each year.

Holy crap.
posted by zarq at 4:36 PM on October 27, 2018


"Honey, I got a promotion! I finally got the Cream of Mushroom account!"
posted by rhizome at 4:37 PM on October 27, 2018 [1 favorite]


Is it possible that it's just a regional thing or part of a specific subset of American culture? Asking because my family's been here 8 generations and the first time I've ever heard of this dish is just now with this post. Have never had any.

It's definitely a white people thing, and definitely more common away from the coasts. There's probably class stuff involved too: just as anecdata, in my very white part of Michigan, my very upper-middle-class family would have been horrified at the idea of serving it, while friends' families a notch or two down the class scale would have been puzzled at a Thanksgiving without it.
posted by nebulawindphone at 6:54 PM on October 27, 2018 [3 favorites]


It was not a Thanksgiving/holiday dish for us. Sometimes it'd make an appearance at a holiday/extended- family gathering, but really it was just something my mom made sometimes. SE Michigan middle class.
posted by ghost phoneme at 8:45 PM on October 27, 2018 [1 favorite]


The Alton Brown recipe isn’t that fussy and is much better than the original. The times I’ve made it there have never been any leftovers. I may do the Thomas Keller version this year.

People who still use canned beans: are you unaware of the invention of refrigeration? Why do you do that to yourselves?
posted by mikesch at 10:49 AM on October 28, 2018


Because I like it with canned beans sometimes? Mmmm, sodium. I recognize this isn't universal, so if I'm making it for more than my husband and i, I will definitely default to frozen.

The Alton Brown recipe isn't too fussy (speaking as someone not handling 3 kids solo), but if I have fresh green beans I prefer to just saute the bunch (minus a few that I munch on during prep) in olive oil a bit with garlic. Maybe toss in some grape tomatoes if it's the right time of year. Squeeze of lemon to finish.

I really need a garden again.
posted by ghost phoneme at 11:35 AM on October 28, 2018


1. I love green bean casserole. A forkful that contains that, some stuffing, and some mashed potatoes is TRANSCENDENT.
2. This past year I started embracing french fried onions the rest of the year. Sprinkle them on top of stir fry! Add to a salad! Throw them in a wrap! A great hit of unctuous umami to round out a dish.
posted by a fiendish thingy at 7:37 AM on October 29, 2018 [1 favorite]


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