The Flask of Us
March 2, 2023 10:07 AM Subscribe
95% of the world's bourbon is produced in Kentucky. However, for years residents wondered about the ubiquitous strange dark sooty film that seemed to grow nearly everywhere statewide - was it soot or ash from chimneys? Pollution from another factory? Turns out that it's an infestation of Baudoinia compniacensis, otherwise known as "the whiskey fungus."
The main cause of the spread is a side effect of the distilling process itself. Whiskeys are aged in wooden barrels, sometimes for years at a time, with the wood absorbing some of the harsher chemicals out of the developing whiskey and imbuing it with its own flavors. During this process, a small portion of the alcohol also evaporates out of the whiskey. However, it's such a scant amount - no more than 2% per year - that distillers weren't bothered, and instead have been poetically been calling that loss "the angel's share" of their brews, imagining that the evaporated alcohol was drifting into the heavens.
However, that alcohol instead serves as a superfood for colonies of Baudoinia compniacensis, which followed the alcohol earthward when the evaporated alcohol finally fell back to earth. The colonies then just needed moisture - either from rain or dew - to really take off and grow.
Fortunately the effects of Baudoinia compniacensis are only cosmetic. But they're a nuisance to clean - in an interview with Atlas Obscura, one resident mentioned that she's had to power-wash her house twice in the past five years, but no longer has the money and instead cleans her house with bleach by hand - a process that takes three days.
Residents have begun pushing back, especially since Kentucky has seen a 250% increase in distilleries within the past ten years. To add insult to injury, other distilleries from out of state rent space in Kentucky warehouses to age their own products, pumping yet more alcohol into the air and exacerbating the problem. Residents recently sued to block construction of a new Jack Daniels' facility, complaining that the state board of health needed to compel Jack Daniels to install filters designed to mitigate the problem.
The main cause of the spread is a side effect of the distilling process itself. Whiskeys are aged in wooden barrels, sometimes for years at a time, with the wood absorbing some of the harsher chemicals out of the developing whiskey and imbuing it with its own flavors. During this process, a small portion of the alcohol also evaporates out of the whiskey. However, it's such a scant amount - no more than 2% per year - that distillers weren't bothered, and instead have been poetically been calling that loss "the angel's share" of their brews, imagining that the evaporated alcohol was drifting into the heavens.
However, that alcohol instead serves as a superfood for colonies of Baudoinia compniacensis, which followed the alcohol earthward when the evaporated alcohol finally fell back to earth. The colonies then just needed moisture - either from rain or dew - to really take off and grow.
Fortunately the effects of Baudoinia compniacensis are only cosmetic. But they're a nuisance to clean - in an interview with Atlas Obscura, one resident mentioned that she's had to power-wash her house twice in the past five years, but no longer has the money and instead cleans her house with bleach by hand - a process that takes three days.
Residents have begun pushing back, especially since Kentucky has seen a 250% increase in distilleries within the past ten years. To add insult to injury, other distilleries from out of state rent space in Kentucky warehouses to age their own products, pumping yet more alcohol into the air and exacerbating the problem. Residents recently sued to block construction of a new Jack Daniels' facility, complaining that the state board of health needed to compel Jack Daniels to install filters designed to mitigate the problem.
I love the title of this post.
posted by grumpybear69 at 10:56 AM on March 2, 2023 [29 favorites]
posted by grumpybear69 at 10:56 AM on March 2, 2023 [29 favorites]
Weird: this goo is all over the place around malt whisky bonded warehouses in southern Scotland. And yet it doesn't seem to be seen as such a big deal.
Cynical Scottish me suspects it adds some colour to the place. I wonder if you can deep-fry it and eat it?
posted by scruss at 11:15 AM on March 2, 2023 [13 favorites]
Cynical Scottish me suspects it adds some colour to the place. I wonder if you can deep-fry it and eat it?
posted by scruss at 11:15 AM on March 2, 2023 [13 favorites]
The Whiskey Fungus.
posted by The Tensor at 11:16 AM on March 2, 2023
posted by The Tensor at 11:16 AM on March 2, 2023
I wish I could claim credit for the post title; that was a quip I saw someone else make when I read about this first and it was too good.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 11:21 AM on March 2, 2023 [5 favorites]
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 11:21 AM on March 2, 2023 [5 favorites]
Weird: this goo is all over the place around malt whisky bonded warehouses in southern Scotland. And yet it doesn't seem to be seen as such a big deal.
they were already used to black on the insides?
posted by Clowder of bats at 11:47 AM on March 2, 2023 [1 favorite]
they were already used to black on the insides?
posted by Clowder of bats at 11:47 AM on March 2, 2023 [1 favorite]
Super interesting. Thanks for this!
Whiskey fungus previously.
I used to live not far from the area in that piece (Lakeshore, Ontario). The fungus was very noticeable around there, particularly on houses with white siding.
On the upside, on days when the wind was blowing right, you could smell the Hiram Walker distillery.
The smell was pretty pleasant, particularly relative to the Ford aluminum foundry in Windsor, or Zug Island and the Rouge steel complex across the river. S
But that's the only distillery and associated warehouses in operation in Windsor, so its impact is fairly limited. I understand from the articles in the post (and having a personal interest in whisky) that the industry in Kentucky has expanded dramatically, hence the growth of the fungal problem.
As a side note, Hiram Walker has a pretty interesting prohibition-era history vis-a-vis easy smuggling to the US...Detroit's only about half a kilometre away by water at certain points:
In 1918 the Canadian government closed all distilleries and breweries as a non-essential industry for the war effort. By the end of the year all distilleries, breweries, and wineries in both countries had closed. Complete prohibition had been achieved as a direct result of WWI.
It was after the war that all the problems with prohibition really began. Canada, a much smaller country population-wise, was more vulnerable to the affect that prohibtion had on the liquor industries, which provided local employment and substantial revenue for the government. As a result, Canadian distillers were allowed to reopen shortly after the end of the war.
The United States took a different approach: distilleries, breweries and wineries remained closed. The U.S. government had struggles with this issue for years and now decided to take a stand in favour of the “drys.” The Volstead Act passed in 1920 to enforce this stance.
Since the American public still wanted to drink they turned to the Canadians distillers, now in legal operation, for their supply. When the U.S. authorities cracked down on the Detroit/Windsor border in the late 1920s most of the smuggling efforts moved to the East Coast.
The shiploads of contraband liquor that left the coast proved much more lucrative than the jalopy-and-rowboats methods of the Detroit River smuggling business. This change in logistics pushed the industry to new heights.
posted by mandolin conspiracy at 11:48 AM on March 2, 2023 [3 favorites]
Whiskey fungus previously.
I used to live not far from the area in that piece (Lakeshore, Ontario). The fungus was very noticeable around there, particularly on houses with white siding.
On the upside, on days when the wind was blowing right, you could smell the Hiram Walker distillery.
The smell was pretty pleasant, particularly relative to the Ford aluminum foundry in Windsor, or Zug Island and the Rouge steel complex across the river. S
But that's the only distillery and associated warehouses in operation in Windsor, so its impact is fairly limited. I understand from the articles in the post (and having a personal interest in whisky) that the industry in Kentucky has expanded dramatically, hence the growth of the fungal problem.
As a side note, Hiram Walker has a pretty interesting prohibition-era history vis-a-vis easy smuggling to the US...Detroit's only about half a kilometre away by water at certain points:
In 1918 the Canadian government closed all distilleries and breweries as a non-essential industry for the war effort. By the end of the year all distilleries, breweries, and wineries in both countries had closed. Complete prohibition had been achieved as a direct result of WWI.
It was after the war that all the problems with prohibition really began. Canada, a much smaller country population-wise, was more vulnerable to the affect that prohibtion had on the liquor industries, which provided local employment and substantial revenue for the government. As a result, Canadian distillers were allowed to reopen shortly after the end of the war.
The United States took a different approach: distilleries, breweries and wineries remained closed. The U.S. government had struggles with this issue for years and now decided to take a stand in favour of the “drys.” The Volstead Act passed in 1920 to enforce this stance.
Since the American public still wanted to drink they turned to the Canadians distillers, now in legal operation, for their supply. When the U.S. authorities cracked down on the Detroit/Windsor border in the late 1920s most of the smuggling efforts moved to the East Coast.
The shiploads of contraband liquor that left the coast proved much more lucrative than the jalopy-and-rowboats methods of the Detroit River smuggling business. This change in logistics pushed the industry to new heights.
posted by mandolin conspiracy at 11:48 AM on March 2, 2023 [3 favorites]
Cynical Scottish me suspects it adds some colour to the place. I wonder if you can deep-fry it and eat it?
Scottish huitlacoche?
posted by mandolin conspiracy at 12:06 PM on March 2, 2023 [7 favorites]
Scottish huitlacoche?
posted by mandolin conspiracy at 12:06 PM on March 2, 2023 [7 favorites]
However, that alcohol instead serves as a superfood for colonies of Baudoinia compniacensis,
TIL I am a colony of Baudoinia compniacensis
posted by General Malaise at 1:20 PM on March 2, 2023 [15 favorites]
TIL I am a colony of Baudoinia compniacensis
posted by General Malaise at 1:20 PM on March 2, 2023 [15 favorites]
The only research I can find is that snails and slugs will eat Baudoinia, no information YET on its toxicity and or palatibility to humans. I for one am perfectly willing to make the sacrifices necessary to go and lick the walls.
Serious note: there's highly variable toxicity and allergic reactions between humans and all sorts of fungus, sometimes it varies from year to year. I don't want to get anybody too excited or disappointed about a new superfood, don't go licking the walls, that's how you get trespassed for life.
posted by ivan ivanych samovar at 4:19 PM on March 2, 2023 [2 favorites]
Serious note: there's highly variable toxicity and allergic reactions between humans and all sorts of fungus, sometimes it varies from year to year. I don't want to get anybody too excited or disappointed about a new superfood, don't go licking the walls, that's how you get trespassed for life.
posted by ivan ivanych samovar at 4:19 PM on March 2, 2023 [2 favorites]
Black moon of Kentucky, keep on shining…
posted by Ollie at 4:53 PM on March 2, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by Ollie at 4:53 PM on March 2, 2023 [1 favorite]
"everywhere statewide" is some powerful hyperbole
posted by joeyh at 5:06 PM on March 2, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by joeyh at 5:06 PM on March 2, 2023 [1 favorite]
Since the American public still wanted to drink they turned to the Canadians distillers, now in legal operation, for their supply.
My grandfather became a bootlegger working the Windsor-Detroit route after running away from home as a teenager after his parents died. At least that's the family story.
posted by praemunire at 7:31 PM on March 2, 2023 [3 favorites]
My grandfather became a bootlegger working the Windsor-Detroit route after running away from home as a teenager after his parents died. At least that's the family story.
posted by praemunire at 7:31 PM on March 2, 2023 [3 favorites]
Since the American public still wanted to drink they turned to the Canadians distillers, now in legal operation, for their supply.
And many of the major generationally wealthy Canadians of the twentieth century were created by this industry. It's a weirdly underplayed part of Canadian industrial history probably because Canada, and Ontario in particular, has such a complicated attitude towards alcohol.
posted by srboisvert at 4:40 AM on March 3, 2023
And many of the major generationally wealthy Canadians of the twentieth century were created by this industry. It's a weirdly underplayed part of Canadian industrial history probably because Canada, and Ontario in particular, has such a complicated attitude towards alcohol.
posted by srboisvert at 4:40 AM on March 3, 2023
I work at a distillery…actually the warehouse facility for a brand some of you would recognize. The fungus grows on the outside of the warehouses and on most surfaces downwind from us. People who live in the area and who need to power wash their houses a few times a year consider it a minor nuisance. Many of them are also dependent on the Bourbon trade for livelihood (directly or indirectly). I assume this plays a part in their perception of the fungus.
posted by Insert Clever Name Here at 4:52 AM on March 3, 2023 [5 favorites]
posted by Insert Clever Name Here at 4:52 AM on March 3, 2023 [5 favorites]
As a Python programmer, I got irrationally excited about this post until I disccovered what it was about. Then I saw it was about whisk(e)y and bourbon and was okay again.
posted by Mr. Bad Example at 5:05 AM on March 3, 2023 [6 favorites]
posted by Mr. Bad Example at 5:05 AM on March 3, 2023 [6 favorites]
"everywhere statewide" is some powerful hyperbole
So, this is a map of all of the distilleries in Kentucky as of January 2022, showing a fairly statewide spread; most of them are in the center of the state, but there are still some to the east and west ends of the state.
Also consider that the clouds of ethanol carrying the fungus can drift several miles before falling back to earth.
I'd say "everywhere statewide" isn't quite so much of a hyperbole as you may be imagining.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 6:13 AM on March 3, 2023 [1 favorite]
So, this is a map of all of the distilleries in Kentucky as of January 2022, showing a fairly statewide spread; most of them are in the center of the state, but there are still some to the east and west ends of the state.
Also consider that the clouds of ethanol carrying the fungus can drift several miles before falling back to earth.
I'd say "everywhere statewide" isn't quite so much of a hyperbole as you may be imagining.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 6:13 AM on March 3, 2023 [1 favorite]
I'm rewatching Justified and I had to get a bottle of bourbon because they're drinking it all the time on that show.
posted by kirkaracha at 8:33 AM on March 3, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by kirkaracha at 8:33 AM on March 3, 2023 [1 favorite]
a fairly statewide spread
One of the things that has happened over the last several years is that more Scotch distillers are switching to ex-bourbon casks. I'm fond of both bourbon and sherry cask-aged Scotches, but apparently it's getting harder to come by enough sherry casks (and they're getting pricier). So, to keep up with Scotch production demand, the ratio is tilting in favour of bourbon. Based on exploding U.S. bourbon production, those ex casks are readily available these days, and cheap.
posted by mandolin conspiracy at 11:35 AM on March 3, 2023 [1 favorite]
One of the things that has happened over the last several years is that more Scotch distillers are switching to ex-bourbon casks. I'm fond of both bourbon and sherry cask-aged Scotches, but apparently it's getting harder to come by enough sherry casks (and they're getting pricier). So, to keep up with Scotch production demand, the ratio is tilting in favour of bourbon. Based on exploding U.S. bourbon production, those ex casks are readily available these days, and cheap.
posted by mandolin conspiracy at 11:35 AM on March 3, 2023 [1 favorite]
Same same for the brandy they age in warehouses in Cognac, France. It's a giveaway to the tax officials.
posted by k3ninho at 3:03 PM on March 3, 2023
posted by k3ninho at 3:03 PM on March 3, 2023
As a Python programmer, I got irrationally excited about this post until I disccovered what it was about. Then I saw it was about whisk(e)y and bourbon and was okay again.It is important to bottle those expectations - this is a fungi not a starlette. Apologies if this request(s) leaves you needing a hug. May I suggest settling those feelings with a homebrew, some APIs (maybe a beautifulsoup?) and a movie? I hear Django Unchained is good. I haven’t seen it though so the recommendation comes from a small dattasette.
posted by Mr. Bad Example
Apologies for this try-ing comment, if it caused any exceptions please know that I am happy (even if against best practices) to left them pass. Finally - apologies again. I hope your Metafilter reading experience gets pip’ed with a better package.
posted by mce at 11:43 AM on March 4, 2023 [3 favorites]
So, to keep up with Scotch production demand, the ratio is tilting in favour of bourbon. Based on exploding U.S. bourbon production, those ex casks are readily available these days, and cheap.
It's not just that there's a lot of bourbon being made, it's also that in order to call it bourbon you're legally required to use fresh barrels so they have a lot of lightly used barrels to get rid of, so they're cheap.
I guess that means depending on how you think of it, there's no bourbon-barrel aged bourbon.
posted by aubilenon at 6:02 PM on March 4, 2023
It's not just that there's a lot of bourbon being made, it's also that in order to call it bourbon you're legally required to use fresh barrels so they have a lot of lightly used barrels to get rid of, so they're cheap.
I guess that means depending on how you think of it, there's no bourbon-barrel aged bourbon.
posted by aubilenon at 6:02 PM on March 4, 2023
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It was weird and slightly gummy and I wasn't a fan of being around it. (The cachaça on the other hand was fantastic). They had it contained to the block house housing the barrels - I didn't see it anywhere else. If I had to clean my house because of it, I'd be hopping mad even if it isn't the worst thing in the world.
posted by drewbage1847 at 10:17 AM on March 2, 2023 [9 favorites]