I have long been a wet-lipped, weak-kneed, unashamed chef groupie.
March 9, 2025 2:45 PM Subscribe
I can’t describe in detail how the upstairs dining room at Sharmilee in Leicester has changed since last I visited. After all, 26 years is a long time. Sharmilee was the second restaurant I reviewed when I started writing this column in the spring of 1999 and it’s the only one of the first six that is still trading. — Jay Rayner, of many previous posts here, writes his final restaurant review for The Observer. And is delighted, as he much prefers to be.
He's infamous here for his occasional negative review, but his modus operandi has always been to share the joy of eating. Hence Wordshore's story of his bad review of a restaurant at one of London's most exclusive hotels also includes his prior 5 reviews to that, all positive, all more affordable.
Need to find a review he's done? The last three years of his reviews are on a map here, on a fan site.
But he's not gone. Following the sale of The Observer to Tortoise Media, he moved to the FT, arguably the most trustworthy of the London newspapers.
He's infamous here for his occasional negative review, but his modus operandi has always been to share the joy of eating. Hence Wordshore's story of his bad review of a restaurant at one of London's most exclusive hotels also includes his prior 5 reviews to that, all positive, all more affordable.
Need to find a review he's done? The last three years of his reviews are on a map here, on a fan site.
But he's not gone. Following the sale of The Observer to Tortoise Media, he moved to the FT, arguably the most trustworthy of the London newspapers.
I mean, he likes eating food. I like eating food and I like imagining eating food.
So I like the positive reviews.
posted by ambrosen at 4:38 PM on March 9 [6 favorites]
So I like the positive reviews.
posted by ambrosen at 4:38 PM on March 9 [6 favorites]
I work way more Sundays than I want to. For years now, JR's reviews have been the thing I look at when the day is done. Positive or negative reviews, it doesn't matter to me. It's his writing I enjoy.
posted by Calvin and the Duplicators at 4:52 PM on March 9 [3 favorites]
posted by Calvin and the Duplicators at 4:52 PM on March 9 [3 favorites]
Glad to read this. And I always appreciate the service journalism of reporters on a culture beat who call our attention to what's good as well as dissect what doesn't work -- appreciative inquiry and critical inquiry going hand-in-hand.
posted by brainwane at 5:38 PM on March 9 [2 favorites]
posted by brainwane at 5:38 PM on March 9 [2 favorites]
In terms of value for money and expectation Le Cinq supplied by far the worst restaurant experience I have endured in my 18 years in this job. This, it must be said, is an achievement of sorts.
posted by lalochezia at 7:11 PM on March 9 [2 favorites]
posted by lalochezia at 7:11 PM on March 9 [2 favorites]
The negative reviews can be fun to read, sometimes, but they also get a bit performative in the long run, so I'm another vote for the positives. Also, they often inspire me to try something in my own kitchen.
During lockdown, he wrote about cookbooks, and delivery options.
posted by mumimor at 12:30 AM on March 10 [1 favorite]
During lockdown, he wrote about cookbooks, and delivery options.
posted by mumimor at 12:30 AM on March 10 [1 favorite]
Trying to be supportive of the industry with praise for obscure and ordinary places is not the critic’s job.
Well, isn't it often the critic who gives what were formerly obscure and ordinary places their renown, so long as they serve good food?
Personally, I'll take an osteria, a bistro or a food stall over an expensive, white-tablecloth restaurant with a dress code any day, if the food is just as good – and there are street food stalls with Michelin stars these days.
Anyway, congratulations on a long and successful career to Rayner. I always enjoyed reading his reviews.
posted by Panthalassa at 4:03 AM on March 10 [4 favorites]
Well, isn't it often the critic who gives what were formerly obscure and ordinary places their renown, so long as they serve good food?
Personally, I'll take an osteria, a bistro or a food stall over an expensive, white-tablecloth restaurant with a dress code any day, if the food is just as good – and there are street food stalls with Michelin stars these days.
Anyway, congratulations on a long and successful career to Rayner. I always enjoyed reading his reviews.
posted by Panthalassa at 4:03 AM on March 10 [4 favorites]
I'm an unabashed Jay Rayner fan, and I love that he's decided to leave the Observer due to their buyer, Tortoise Media. I will look forward to reading his column in FN and as well as listening to The Kitchen Cabinet. Now, Nigel Slater, please do the same.
posted by Kitteh at 6:52 AM on March 10 [1 favorite]
posted by Kitteh at 6:52 AM on March 10 [1 favorite]
It’s the negative reviews that are so good to read. Trying to be supportive of the industry with praise for obscure and ordinary places is not the critic’s job.
Why? It's not like food and restaurants aren't candidates for intellectual analysis - they connect to society, culture, economic developments, politics, and so on - but fundamentally they're also very much about sensory and sensual experience. A reviewer giving in to their sensory delight can be really fun to read, if they know how to write. I think Roger Ebert said something once about how reviewers shouldn't feel embarrassed writing an enthusiastic review, even for movies that aren't necessarily the most sophisticated. Quality comes in many wavelengths.
(Plus, as a watcher/eater/whatever I want to know about the good ones. And the decent affordable ones, what can I say.)
posted by trig at 8:16 AM on March 10 [1 favorite]
Why? It's not like food and restaurants aren't candidates for intellectual analysis - they connect to society, culture, economic developments, politics, and so on - but fundamentally they're also very much about sensory and sensual experience. A reviewer giving in to their sensory delight can be really fun to read, if they know how to write. I think Roger Ebert said something once about how reviewers shouldn't feel embarrassed writing an enthusiastic review, even for movies that aren't necessarily the most sophisticated. Quality comes in many wavelengths.
(Plus, as a watcher/eater/whatever I want to know about the good ones. And the decent affordable ones, what can I say.)
posted by trig at 8:16 AM on March 10 [1 favorite]
I always enjoy reading Rayner's reviews and I'll add that I enjoy the positive ones more than the negative ones. I haven't been to the UK in over 15 years and have no plans to visit any time soon but even still I enjoy how he writes about eating a good meal.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 1:42 PM on March 12 [1 favorite]
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 1:42 PM on March 12 [1 favorite]
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