The Curious History of “Tribal” Prints
May 27, 2016 6:14 AM Subscribe
Did anyone else see the Interwoven Globe exhibit at the Met? It discussed similar intercultural ordered gins of textiles, but in a slightly earlier period. I thought it could have been a little more attuned to how unequal and oppressive many of those exchanges were, but it was really interesting to see how globalized textile design and production was, even in the sixteenth to eighteenth centuries.
posted by ArbitraryAndCapricious at 6:53 AM on May 27, 2016
posted by ArbitraryAndCapricious at 6:53 AM on May 27, 2016
Traveling in Mali I noticed that a lot of the "traditional" prints were imported from the Netherlands. Looking at fabric was a major source of entertainment both in markets and on the street. Popular at the time were "giant bunch of carrots", "key-hole with eyeball peeking through" and a version of M. C. Escher's Birds and Fishes, out of which I had a local-style suit made with huge balloon pants.
posted by Jode at 8:21 AM on May 27, 2016 [2 favorites]
posted by Jode at 8:21 AM on May 27, 2016 [2 favorites]
I love the idea of the different fabric designs being named.
The article in the Previous FPP noted by ChuraChura has some great examples:
posted by Kabanos at 10:10 AM on May 27, 2016 [4 favorites]
The article in the Previous FPP noted by ChuraChura has some great examples:
A print designed in 1940 called Six Bougies, changed meaning over time. At first, it signaled economic prosperity, as the owner demonstrated that he or she could afford a six cilinder car. But the print eventually took on a quite different meaning: that the woman wearing had the umph to handle six men – a meaning repurposed for the next generation design of Eight Bougies…A couple of more links with fabric patterns and their names. Although as mentioned in those blog posts and their comments, a lot of the names and "meanings" of the patterns are not necessarily known to the younger generations. For something more academic, see Symbolic Significance Of African Prints: A Dying Phenomenon In Contemporary Print Designs In Ghana, discussing how symbolism has gradually given way to straight-up aesthetics. Not sure if the more recent fashion interest in the designs has hastened or delayed that process.
posted by Kabanos at 10:10 AM on May 27, 2016 [4 favorites]
Shweshwe is another type of fabric originally imported from Europe, but now it's manufactured, and become traditional, in South Africa.
Unfortunately the manufacturers are having a hard time competing with imports and knock-offs too. They've expanded the lines from the traditional hues to embrace brighter colors like pink and turquoise, to appeal to newer and younger markets.
posted by Fantods at 11:46 AM on May 27, 2016 [1 favorite]
Unfortunately the manufacturers are having a hard time competing with imports and knock-offs too. They've expanded the lines from the traditional hues to embrace brighter colors like pink and turquoise, to appeal to newer and younger markets.
posted by Fantods at 11:46 AM on May 27, 2016 [1 favorite]
How do you publish an article about textile designs and omit to print a single illustration? It's a form of anti genius.
posted by Tuco Benedicto Pacifico Juan Maria Ramirez at 4:22 PM on May 27, 2016 [5 favorites]
posted by Tuco Benedicto Pacifico Juan Maria Ramirez at 4:22 PM on May 27, 2016 [5 favorites]
Thanks for this -- I'm a massive fan of ankara (as wax cloth is also called) and was waiting for a good overview article.
New Yorkers interested in wax cloth should get their butts down to Dance Africa at BAM this weekend, as just about every vendor from the city and beyond will be there. The rest of the year, try the Shabazz market on 116th Street in Harlem.
posted by gusandrews at 8:45 PM on May 27, 2016
New Yorkers interested in wax cloth should get their butts down to Dance Africa at BAM this weekend, as just about every vendor from the city and beyond will be there. The rest of the year, try the Shabazz market on 116th Street in Harlem.
posted by gusandrews at 8:45 PM on May 27, 2016
I have a Vlisco print, size of a small tablecloth, that I use as a baby carrier. The fabric is ridiculously silky-soft, colors are stunning and saturated - really like no other cotton print I've ever seen. The design is of woodpeckers and yo-yo's, lots of green and purple and brown on a black background. I haven't been able to find out what this design means (if anything) but I absolutely love it. Thanks for posting.
posted by The Toad at 8:46 PM on May 27, 2016
posted by The Toad at 8:46 PM on May 27, 2016
How do you publish an article about textile designs and omit to print a single illustration? It's a form of anti genius.
Did you miss the annotated slideshow? It's roughly halfways down in the Slate article.
posted by effbot at 2:24 PM on May 28, 2016
Did you miss the annotated slideshow? It's roughly halfways down in the Slate article.
posted by effbot at 2:24 PM on May 28, 2016
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posted by Katemonkey at 6:51 AM on May 27, 2016 [1 favorite]