Seven layers of vermillion crustaceans, topped with a claw to the sky
April 14, 2024 5:43 AM Subscribe
“The toughest reservation in France, it turns out, is not at a Michelin-starred destination like Mirazur or Septime. It’s at an all-you-can-eat buffet situated in a municipal rec center in the smallish city of Narbonne.” Not exclusive, but exclusively serving French cuisine, it served 380,000 people last year for €52.90 each (plus drinks, sold at retail price), but there are 9 types of foie gras, a pâté en croûte made with 7 different meats, and a record breaking 111 varieties of cheese on the cheeseboard. The place settings and silverware and gilt and chandeliers deserve to be seen – they are not of your ordinary buffet restaurant.
(New Yorker, archive)
New bucket list entry: ADDED.
posted by foxtongue at 7:40 AM on April 14 [5 favorites]
posted by foxtongue at 7:40 AM on April 14 [5 favorites]
I would have liked more digging into the reasoning behind the explicitly "French" (for a certain, non-representative, probably ahistorical value of French) cuisine.
Saying that he's good to his workers is presented as dismissing that complaint. I was waiting for the bit where they talked about whether his workers were all white or not.
I definitely noticed the Irish coffee and the Stilton, again, expected a paragraph talking about why sushi could never be French but those two things get a pass, and was disappointed when it wasn't addressed.
posted by Audreynachrome at 7:48 AM on April 14
Saying that he's good to his workers is presented as dismissing that complaint. I was waiting for the bit where they talked about whether his workers were all white or not.
I definitely noticed the Irish coffee and the Stilton, again, expected a paragraph talking about why sushi could never be French but those two things get a pass, and was disappointed when it wasn't addressed.
posted by Audreynachrome at 7:48 AM on April 14
I dunno. All-u-can-eat French cuisine sounds like an oxymoron. My ideal for French cuisine is a gifted chef and team creating absolute culinary jewels in perfect portions, served with impeccable timing.
posted by Artful Codger at 8:06 AM on April 14 [2 favorites]
posted by Artful Codger at 8:06 AM on April 14 [2 favorites]
111 varieties of cheese on the cheeseboard
What about the other 135?
posted by CheeseDigestsAll at 8:14 AM on April 14 [4 favorites]
What about the other 135?
posted by CheeseDigestsAll at 8:14 AM on April 14 [4 favorites]
I couldn't bring myself to go in there without a docent.
posted by Faint of Butt at 8:24 AM on April 14 [3 favorites]
posted by Faint of Butt at 8:24 AM on April 14 [3 favorites]
A friend of mine went there last year and enjoyed it. As a vegan, I suspect that the appeal for me would be limited, but if anyone ever hears of a grand buffet concept that's entirely plant-based please hit me up, because I dream of buffets but most of the ones that actually exist are laden with animal products.
posted by terretu at 8:29 AM on April 14 [8 favorites]
posted by terretu at 8:29 AM on April 14 [8 favorites]
Well I tried but no luck. There is a lunch vacancy on June 13th but nothing else until some dinner spots in the (much) later part of the year. Lunch seems more popular than dinner, but I think that's a French preference. Also, it lets you have a full afternoon blowout by the sound of things.
posted by biffa at 8:34 AM on April 14 [2 favorites]
posted by biffa at 8:34 AM on April 14 [2 favorites]
While I acknowledge there does seem to be a whiff of "France before THOSE people showed up" to some of the the attitudes in the article (no shade on the owner or anything, that's just my take from reading the article), I still would be interested in this place. I do not like buffets. I have been to Paris about five times, and while I am no Parisian, it is weirdly hard to find "traditional" French dishes. I really want to try Coq au Vin done the old-school way. I want to try all sorts of old-school French dishes that I have heard about my whole life, and this seems like a place where you can do that reasonably. It's pricey, and I wouldn't go regularly but it would be nice to try small portions of these famous dishes done the traditional way.
I love all kinds of foods from around the world. I love kebabs, I love falafel, burgers, pizza, pasta, Pho, and all manner of other Asian and Indian dishes I have tried. I very rarely try something that I really dislike. But even in Paris, the really traditional old-style French food is not easy to find. I just want to try all this stuff! Where else am I going to sample pressed duck? Or quenelles, or a bunch of other old-school French dishes I have heard of since watching Julia Child in the 1970s (and I cannot think of to list at this moment).
posted by SoberHighland at 8:35 AM on April 14 [2 favorites]
I love all kinds of foods from around the world. I love kebabs, I love falafel, burgers, pizza, pasta, Pho, and all manner of other Asian and Indian dishes I have tried. I very rarely try something that I really dislike. But even in Paris, the really traditional old-style French food is not easy to find. I just want to try all this stuff! Where else am I going to sample pressed duck? Or quenelles, or a bunch of other old-school French dishes I have heard of since watching Julia Child in the 1970s (and I cannot think of to list at this moment).
posted by SoberHighland at 8:35 AM on April 14 [2 favorites]
I'm attempting to be philosophically upbeat about the fact that I've got to get quotes to repair or replace the front steps of our house and at no point in this immediate future will I be losing control at that lobster tower, or the cheese room, or crawling under a table to try to nap before starting all over for dinner.
posted by winesong at 8:47 AM on April 14 [2 favorites]
posted by winesong at 8:47 AM on April 14 [2 favorites]
it is weirdly hard to find "traditional" French dishes.
I think that in this day and age, you will have to go to smaller towns for the real French food experience. It's the same in many European big cities. People want to try something new and different. It seems that Lyon has more traditional food than Paris, even though it is a big city.
That said, I am really mad with myself for not taking notes when I was once in Paris for work, and found the perfect classic bistro. I thought I would remember its name and address forever, because it was that good, but I have no idea where it was or what it was called. My only hope is that somewhere in my stacks of stuff there is a receipt, since it was a work thing. I think it was in the 8th, and it probably makes sense to look for such places in more bourgeois quarters.
Regarding the article, I don't read the proprietor's point of view as racist or nationalist, more as an enthusiasm for tradition. As a home cook, I love to delve into my gran's old cookbooks and see if there is anything edible in there. In France you are certain to find delicious recipes that few people cook today. But that may be my bias.
posted by mumimor at 9:25 AM on April 14 [2 favorites]
I think that in this day and age, you will have to go to smaller towns for the real French food experience. It's the same in many European big cities. People want to try something new and different. It seems that Lyon has more traditional food than Paris, even though it is a big city.
That said, I am really mad with myself for not taking notes when I was once in Paris for work, and found the perfect classic bistro. I thought I would remember its name and address forever, because it was that good, but I have no idea where it was or what it was called. My only hope is that somewhere in my stacks of stuff there is a receipt, since it was a work thing. I think it was in the 8th, and it probably makes sense to look for such places in more bourgeois quarters.
Regarding the article, I don't read the proprietor's point of view as racist or nationalist, more as an enthusiasm for tradition. As a home cook, I love to delve into my gran's old cookbooks and see if there is anything edible in there. In France you are certain to find delicious recipes that few people cook today. But that may be my bias.
posted by mumimor at 9:25 AM on April 14 [2 favorites]
I kinda wanna hear more about this dance called The Madison, tbh.
posted by Navelgazer at 9:29 AM on April 14 [5 favorites]
posted by Navelgazer at 9:29 AM on April 14 [5 favorites]
I noped out at "all you can eat buffet." I always vote "no" on that because if they're making money €53/head on all-you-can-eat, that means I could buy a more memorable meal elsewhere for €53. Also I hate the temptation to take advantage of the "all you can eat" part. Even regular serving sizes typically leave me with no room for dessert, if I try to clean the plate. I don't want to FOMO myself into eating myself sick.
posted by Aardvark Cheeselog at 11:45 AM on April 14 [4 favorites]
posted by Aardvark Cheeselog at 11:45 AM on April 14 [4 favorites]
It seems that Lyon has more traditional food than Paris
yeah but the bouchons are just offal
posted by logicpunk at 12:17 PM on April 14 [7 favorites]
yeah but the bouchons are just offal
posted by logicpunk at 12:17 PM on April 14 [7 favorites]
I kinda wanna hear more about this dance called The Madison, tbh.
This is literally the only time I've heard of it or seen it done: Bande à part
I don't like French food or all-you-can-eat buffets, but 111 cheeses.
111 cheeses.
111 cheeses.
111 cheeses.
I could do that.
posted by betweenthebars at 12:30 PM on April 14 [8 favorites]
This is literally the only time I've heard of it or seen it done: Bande à part
I don't like French food or all-you-can-eat buffets, but 111 cheeses.
111 cheeses.
111 cheeses.
111 cheeses.
I could do that.
posted by betweenthebars at 12:30 PM on April 14 [8 favorites]
......puts the "stent" back in "extensive" options!
posted by lalochezia at 1:02 PM on April 14 [2 favorites]
posted by lalochezia at 1:02 PM on April 14 [2 favorites]
I had a work event in Lyon, and a coworker knew the chef at a local Michelin-starred place. I asked for something vegetarian, and got both mocked and argued with.
Don't let a tyre company decide who makes good food, folks. French cooking is insular and ignorant, in many parts.
posted by rum-soaked space hobo at 1:29 PM on April 14 [4 favorites]
Don't let a tyre company decide who makes good food, folks. French cooking is insular and ignorant, in many parts.
posted by rum-soaked space hobo at 1:29 PM on April 14 [4 favorites]
Say! Do any of you guys know how to Madison?
posted by Pickman's Next Top Model at 3:40 PM on April 14 [5 favorites]
posted by Pickman's Next Top Model at 3:40 PM on April 14 [5 favorites]
Also that restaurant sounds amazing! I would want to bring a cheese guide with me though.
posted by Umami Dearest at 8:02 PM on April 14 [1 favorite]
posted by Umami Dearest at 8:02 PM on April 14 [1 favorite]
Re old-school french food in Paris: Bouillon Pigalle is in the 18th not in the 8th, but it appears to be serving just this type of food. We wanted to try it, but the queue was so long we thought we'll check it out next time when we have a reservation.
posted by kmt at 6:08 AM on April 15 [2 favorites]
posted by kmt at 6:08 AM on April 15 [2 favorites]
I could buy a more memorable meal elsewhere for €53.
Yeah 111-cheese menus are dime a dozen tbh, and we have a dozen foie gras varieties at home.
posted by We put our faith in Blast Hardcheese at 1:16 PM on April 15 [1 favorite]
Yeah 111-cheese menus are dime a dozen tbh, and we have a dozen foie gras varieties at home.
posted by We put our faith in Blast Hardcheese at 1:16 PM on April 15 [1 favorite]
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posted by biffa at 7:23 AM on April 14 [4 favorites]