The snack with a sneer
July 6, 2021 2:15 AM Subscribe
This wasn’t about, say, calling escargot “liberty snails” or a croque monsieur an “Uncle Sam-wich,” although surely someone has thought of that. It was about taking a beloved, ubiquitous staple and putting a nationalist mark on it—not the same culinary colonialism and appropriation of, say, calling chana masala “The Stew” or roti “balloon bread,” or the long-term transition of diners into a symbol of conservative small towns, but an intentional, blatant provocation intended to needle political opponents while saying, “this is ours, actually.”A history of “Freedom Fries”, the hyperbolic W-era nationalistic rebranding of French fries in the wake of France opposing the Iraq war as a moment in the ongoing American culture war, and a beating of the bounds between the in-group and out-group of “Real America”.
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